The pleasures of the table come from the thoughtfulness of people
Lolo Andoy was a very nationalistic Caviteňo, who insisted that only Tagalog be spoken in his home, even by his university-educated children and grandchildren. He subscribed to Tagalog newspapers and listened only to Tagalog radio programs.
This Pilipino-first policy extended to the kitchen, where native dishes ruled year-round. Pinakbet, pinangat, paksiw, ginataan, sinigang, inihaw, and adobo alternated with all manner of vegetable preparations. Every day, that is, except on Christmas Eve when the table was laden with delicacies from many parts of the world, courtesy of the suppliers of his jeepney factory.
First to come was always the five-kilo leg of ham from China, wrapped in layers of cheese cloth, thick paper, and red cotton string netting, followed by a large queso de bola all covered in thick red wax.
Boxes of American red, yellow, and green apples were from the Ford and GM dealers. In those days, no one ever heard of Japanese or Chinese apples. The apples were shared with the jeepney factory workers and their families. The cheese was reserved for visitors, served with pan de unan (unsliced bread loaves). Also distributed among the workers were bags of roasted chestnuts and chocolate bars for their kids.
SALAD FROM THE PX
My two aunts came home from their UST dorm and prepared American potato chicken salad. They butchered, dressed, and boiled a native hen and shredded the meat. Adding color and crunch were diced unpeeled red and green apples. Orange cubes of carrots came from imported cans, as fresh carrots were at the time still rare outside Manila. The salad was held together by a full jar of mayonnaise from the Cavite City black market stores selling PX goods from the Sangley Point US Naval Base. There were no local brands of mayonnaise yet.
We started a week before Christmas by sawing off the ham hock and 12 to16 inches of lower leg bone. They would be added sparingly to boiled dishes.
PREPPING THE HAM
The centerpiece of the Noche Buena table was the whole leg of ham, glistening with a glaze of burnt brown sugar. As the oldest granddaughter, it was my task to assist Lola Tina with the tedious process. We started a week before Christmas by sawing off the ham hock and 12 to16 inches of lower leg bone. They would be added sparingly to boiled dishes.
The meaty portion, skin and all, was washed and scrubbed, then soaked for 48 hours in several fresh water baths to remove all traces of harmless surface mold. It was now ready to transfer to its special cooking vessel: a repurposed kerosene tin can bought and cleaned months before for this specific use.
SIMMER AND SEASON
The well-scrubbed leg was simmered in fresh water for hours, left to cool overnight, then simmered again in fresh water and cooled overnight. It was then ready to be cooked with seasonings. Added to the cooking water were bay leaves, cinnamon bark, whole cloves, smashed garlic, onion halves, a big can of pineapple juice, and kinchay stalks. The ham was simmered gently for two hours, then left to cook overnight in the pot. The next day, the process was repeated, but with the addition of two bottles of beer.
Once cooled, the ham’s tough skin had to be carefully lifted from the layer of fat and flesh beneath.
SIZZLE AND GLAZE
The last step is uniquely Pinoy. Brown sugar was sprinkled liberally over the ham while a metal syanse (spatula) was heated over an open fire. Once red-hot, the spatula was pressed over the sugar coating, creating a burnt caramel crust.
The spatula was heated and pressed all over the ham until the surface was completely glazed. The table’s star was now ready for its close-up. Its surface was sweet with burnt edges. The meat was tender but not stringy, with a unique saltiness increasing as the slices got closer to the bone. Perfect with rice, bread, by itself or with queso de bola.
We ate the ham for breakfast and snacks the whole week, with a bit left for New Year. It was always worth all the effort.