I had barely left the place after the media preview, still digesting the excellent meal we had, when Chef Jorge Mendez and his team announced the news: Undō by Mōdan is now fully booked for both lunch and dinner until its final day on Aug. 23.

For those who still want to experience the limited-time restaurant, the team has opened a waitlist. And what is a food editor to do with that information? Well, if you were to ask me whether it is worth putting your name down, I would say yes.

Undō by Mōdan is a temporary à la carte dining experience at the Balmori Suites Chef's Table, running until Aug. 23. The concept is connected to Mōdan, but Chef Jorge has deliberately given it a personality of its own.

In his speech during the launch, Jorge explained how the idea came about. When Balmori first approached the team about bringing Mōdan, or something inspired by it, into the space, Mōdan was already entering its next chapter. That led to a question: how could they create something connected to Mōdan while giving it its own identity? The answer was Undō.

"Undō, pronounced 'oondoh,' indicates movement in Japanese. For us, it represents curiosity and change," Jorge said.

That idea of movement carries through the restaurant and its food. Undō retains Mōdan's Japanese influence, precision and attention to detail, but Jorge said the new concept allows the team to be more playful, spontaneous and influenced by different perspectives.

The biggest change is in the format. Instead of the tasting menu associated with Mōdan, Undō offers an à la carte menu, designed to be more relaxed and encourage guests to share, discover and enjoy the meal together.

The meal opened with a selection of hot and cold appetizers. The Prawn and Corn Noshidori combines prawn with fried nori, corn kakiage and layu oil, while the Hamachi Piperade pairs dry-aged hamachi with pimentón and mizuna. The cold selections included the Hamachi Insalata and Akami Carbonara Crudo, an inventive preparation of smoked tuna, Pecorino Romano, shoyuzuke egg yolk, katsuo, and potato.

The noodles brought another turn in the meal. The Crab Bisque Spaghetti—one of my absolute favorites—features fresh blue crab, tempura crumbs, and parsley, while the chilled Hiyashi Angel Hair comes with roasted nori and clam collagen.

Among the mains, the Wagyu Mapo Tofu—another must-try—combines mala, ground beef, tofu, and wagyu short rib. The Roasted Mayu Chicken comes with burnt garlic oil, garlic confit, sukiyaki onion, and lotus root. Then there is the King Crab Chahan with Spinach Tofu Soup, pairing crab chahan onigiri and king crab legs with a spinach-dashi broth.

Desserts continue the Japanese-inspired approach, with a Warabi Mochi Sundae layered with kinako powder, Hokkaido milk ice cream and kuromitsu sauce; Hazelnut Panna Cotta with Hojicha Sauce; and Camembert Cheesecake.

The beverage program follows the same spirit. Sommelier Ian Santos has curated wines from celebrated regions around the world, alongside Japanese grape wines and artisanal sake selected to complement the food's balance and character.

Even the room carries the idea of movement and change. At its center is Ipu-ipo, a work by Filipino artist Leeroy New that brings together sculpture, traditional craft, and ikebana. The installation incorporates buri, dried flowers, plants and metal, exploring the relationship between nature, craftsmanship, and change.

Jorge described the work as part of the same thinking behind the food. "It complements the same idea behind our cooking: bringing together different elements, textures, and influences to create harmony."

For Jorge, Undō is ultimately about what happens when a familiar foundation is given room to move. "Undō is about movement. It is about growth, curiosity, and the excitement of creating something new."

That makes the sudden sellout particularly telling. Undō is only here for a short time, and its final day is Aug. 23. The team has announced that both lunch and dinner are fully booked through that date, but diners who still want a chance to experience it can join the waitlist through the form linked on Undō by Mōdan's social media bio.

So, the long and short of it: Is it worth getting on that waitlist? I repeat: Yes.