Worth the drive: A taste of Thailand at Mrs. Saldo's
At Mrs. Saldo's, chef Rhea Rizzo turns a former pineapple field into an expansive culinary destination, with a 10-course Thai tasting inspired by Bangkok
(Photo: Feliciano Rodriguez III/Manila Bulletin)
We found ourselves one windy, cool day in Silang, Cavite, driving along the main road, then through an even smaller road, and finally into a one-way street that seemed to get narrower with every turn. I have never been particularly fond of small, confined spaces, so by that point, I was beginning to feel a little stressed. Then we crossed the threshold of Mrs. Saldo’s, and everything changed.
What greeted us was an expansive property that seemed to give us room to breathe. After navigating those narrow roads, the open space was almost cathartic. I could finally relax, take in the greenery and forget about the troubles of the day for a while. In some form, I was reminded of Frank Lloyd Wright’s idea of compression and release: moving through confined spaces makes the eventual opening feel even more dramatic. At Mrs. Saldo’s, the little roads eventually lead you into a sprawling property that feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle outside.
Located in Barangay Toledo, Silang, Cavite, Mrs. Saldo’s occupies a 5,000-square-meter property that was formerly a pineapple field. Today, the estate combines a private dining restaurant and bakery café with gardens and architectural details inspired by different places around the world. The official description of the property calls attention to its lush greenery and eclectic architecture, while Chef-owner Rhea Rizzo's own story is woven into the spaces and the food.
(Photo: Feliciano Rodriguez III/Manila Bulletin)
That global influence is immediately apparent as you move around the property. There are spaces inspired by the blue-and-white palette of Morocco's Majorelle Garden, areas with a Balinese jungle character, Japanese torii gates, and a bakery influenced by Napa Valley. A dedicated, temperature-controlled wine cellar, marked by its signature red door, reflects Rhea's connection to California, while the Ikigai House provides a farmhouse-style retreat with clean, Zen-inspired lines, wood, metal and glass. The house also has a private pool and can accommodate up to six guests for overnight stays, adding another dimension to what is already an unusually expansive dining destination.
Rhea's culinary journey is as varied as the property. She has formal training in culinary arts and hotel and restaurant management, with further studies at the Center for Asian Culinary Studies. A formative chapter came in Bangkok, where she worked under celebrated chef Gaggan Anand. Her experiences in Bangkok, Napa Valley, Shanghai, and Ubud have all contributed to the way she approaches food at Mrs. Saldo's, where French technique and Southeast Asian flavors meet her personal experiences and memories. The restaurant's own account of Rhea's philosophy emphasizes tradition, craft, memory and the guest experience.
(Photo: Feliciano Rodriguez III/Manila Bulletin)
Chef Rhea invited us to experience her “Bang Bang Thai tasting menu,” a 10-course journey inspired by the elevated street food she encountered at Bangkok's Or Tor Kor market. What makes the menu particularly interesting is its approach to spice. Rather than simply turning up the heat, Rhea uses herbs and spices with a lighter hand, allowing the flavors to remain accessible while retaining the punch expected from Thai cooking.
The tasting begins with a succession of small bites. Mieng kham brings together Iberico pork and fresh herbs from the garden, folded into a betel leaf for a single bite. Laarb arrives atop chicken skin chicharon, bringing crunch to the seasoned preparation, while a salmon nahm jim combines minced salmon, coconut cream, garlic and mint, served with tapioca crackers for scooping. The opening courses already give a good sense of what Rhea is trying to achieve: recognizable Thai flavors presented with a level of refinement appropriate to a tasting menu.
The Thai fried chicken wing offers another surprise. The wing is stuffed with ginger rice, bringing sweet, salty and spicy notes together in a single bite. Caramel-like sweetness meets the saltiness of fish sauce and the heat of sriracha.
The tom kha that follows is creamy and aromatic, with minced shrimp and mushrooms set against coconut, ginger and lemongrass. It comes with a curry-garlic-pandan milk bun, which guests are encouraged to save for the courses that follow. That suggestion turns out to be worthwhile as the tasting moves into its richer curries, with the soft bread becoming a useful vehicle for the sauces.
The mains continue the Thai journey with Crying Tiger, featuring tender beef with a vinegary nam jim jaew. The acidity of the dipping sauce provides a sharp counterpoint to the meat. Then comes duck with pineapple red curry, pairing crisp-skinned duck with the fruitier character of pineapple and red curry.
The beef cheek Massaman curry takes the meal in a deeper direction. The beef is cooked for hours, with cloves and cumin contributing to the curry's richness. Rhea adds chocolate to the preparation, creating a depth that recalls the character of Mexican mole. It is a particularly interesting interpretation of Massaman, using an ingredient more commonly associated with dessert to deepen a savory curry.
A serving of fried cabbage with fish floss provides a lighter counterpoint to the richness of the curries. It is a small but useful part of the progression, giving the palate a different texture and flavor before dessert.
The meal ends with two Thai-inspired sweets. A Thai milk tea popsicle is served over smoked Kalinga Apayao unoy rice crispies, with the tea flavor taking the lead while the rice adds crunch. The final course is a variation on mango sticky rice, combining mango compote with coconut cream and white chocolate.
Beyond the Bang Bang tasting, Mrs. Saldo's also offers a more casual dining experience through Little Miss Saldo's, located on the second floor. Its menu is described as borderless comfort food, with French and New American influences appearing alongside Asian flavors. Dishes have included duck confit with potato dauphinoise and orange Marsala demi-glace, lamb ribs with Massaman curry, and mahi-mahi with cauliflower puree and pilpil sauce. Its all-day brunch offerings include Monte Cristo sandwiches, matcha pancakes, and crispy pork belly with bagoong pineapple fried rice.
Rhea's hospitality is also central to the experience. Guests are welcomed by the staff and introduced to the property before settling in for their meal, making the visit feel like an invitation into someone's expansive home rather than simply a restaurant stop. The destination is intimate enough that advance reservations are strongly recommended, particularly for the private dining experiences.