Even as a Quezon City resident, I realized I hadn't been to SM North EDSA in quite some time. My recent visit to try the newest branch of Sichu Malatang opened my eyes to how much The Block has changed. Gone is the Fitness First gym I used to frequent during my Ateneo days. In its place are new dining concepts, collectible toy stores, other new establishments, and a food hall, turning the area into an even busier destination for hungry shoppers.

Sichu Malatang, which recently opened its 11th branch at The Block, is well situated amid the legendary foot traffic that has long made SM North one of the country's busiest malls. As the restaurant approaches its seventh year, the homegrown chain that introduced many Filipinos to malatang is entering a new chapter, bringing with it a refreshed look and several additions to the menu.

For the uninitiated, malatang can be best described as the love child of hotpot and salad bar dining, with a healthy dose of Sichuan heat. Diners fill a bowl with vegetables, meats, seafood, noodles, and other ingredients, which are then cooked and tossed in a broth or sauce flavored with mala, the addictive combination of chilies and tongue-tingling Sichuan peppercorns.

Originating in China's Sichuan province and popularized as street food, the format has gained a devoted following for its mix-and-match approach, allowing each bowl to be as fiery, indulgent, or vegetable-heavy as its owner desires. Long before mala became mainstream in Manila, Sichu Malatang was introducing Filipinos to this customizable style of eating.

The new branch, which seats 45 diners, departs from the brighter aesthetic of earlier locations. Instead, it embraces moodier lighting, deep red accents, and urban-inspired details reminiscent of late-night food districts. A circular ceiling installation evokes the warmth of a simmering hotpot, while a mural by artist AC Bautista adds youthful energy to the interiors.

Blending traditional Chinese motifs with street-inspired visuals, AC's work serves as both backdrop and conversation piece, complementing the bold flavors that have become synonymous with the brand.

At the center of the experience remains the customizable format that made malatang popular. Diners choose ingredients by weight and can enjoy them in four ways: the signature Malatang hotpot, Malaxiangguo dry pot, Malapan mix pot, and the newly introduced Malaxiangguo Light.

The latest addition offers a lighter take on the dry pot, with less oil and a recipe designed to appeal to vegetarian and vegan diners without sacrificing the signature mala kick.

"As pioneers of this concept, we take immense pride in setting the standard. Every single one of our signature sauces is crafted entirely from scratch by our expert, in-house Chinese chefs," said founder Jeff Li.

Jeff, who grew up in a Chinese household and received professional culinary training, said he personally oversees the flavor profiles.

"My heritage provides a deep understanding of authentic Chinese flavors and traditions, while my formal culinary training enables me to refine and adapt them thoughtfully for local tastes," he said. "This unique combination allows me to bridge tradition and innovation, ensuring authenticity while appealing to both Filipino and Chinese communities."

The SM North branch also serves as the launch pad for several new offerings. Among them is the Lao Gan Ma Fried Rice, inspired by the beloved Chinese chili sauce that has developed something of a cult following among food lovers. Also debuting here is a line of gelato priced at less than P95 per cup, with flavors including vanilla, matcha, mango, and hojicha.