What’s the default restaurant we take our dads to? Steakhouses.

With Father’s Day just around the corner, thoughts turn to where we would celebrate the occasion and, more often than not, where we would persuade the man of the hour to go. I don't know about you, but my late and beloved father, bless his soul, was always dragged to whatever celebration was planned. “Dad, where do you want to celebrate your birthday?” we would ask. “Meh, we could just stay home and eat,” he would answer, much to the eternal chagrin of my late mom. He was the same on Father’s Day, their anniversary, even New Year. Typical men. I imagine both of them now, somewhere out there, in happy bliss, bickering the way they used to, in that charming manner that made them who they were. How I miss them.

Now, I am often asked where the best steakhouse in the metro is. I have lots of suggestions, all good. Cru Steakhouse at Manila Marriott Hotel is one—classic steakhouse ambiance and service, great steaks, and fuss-free. Morton's The Steakhouse is another. But if you press me for my real fave, my admittedly biased self will say that I have a special place in my heart—now undoubtedly filled with cholesterol from repeated visits—for Carmelo’s Steakhouse.

How can I not? I have seen, and written about, the restaurant since it opened at the Proscenium retail row in Rockwell. More importantly, we have formed a great friendship with chef Cristina Santiago, whose restaurant is itself a love letter to her own late and beloved father, Carmelo Santiago. Where else would be more fitting for Father’s Day?

Fortuitously, I was invited to sample some new dishes at Carmelo’s last May 21, reacquainting myself with Cristina and one of my favorite steakhouses in town.

The lunch began with bite-sized canapés, a glimpse into the restaurant's growing private dining and catering offerings. Familiar flavors appeared in miniature form. There was Carmelo's signature pâté spread over crisp toast points, while salmon sashimi tucked inside a crunchy cone and topped with roe and chives offered a playful contrast of textures. Another morsel wrapped shrimp meat in crisp noodles and paired it with salted egg flavors, while buttery foie gras found its way into another cone. One of the standouts came in the form of braised duck tucked beneath a crisp shell. And because this is still Carmelo's, beef naturally made an appearance through a Beef Wellington tart (my fave) that delivered tender meat atop a flaky crust.

The first full dish to arrive was a seafood ceviche inspired by Peru. Three kinds of seafood were tossed in leche de tigre, its citrus notes bright and refreshing. Cristina added bits of nata de coco, lending the dish an unexpected sweetness and a pleasant chew that gave it a distinctly Filipino touch.

Paired with it was a cocktail called Tropical Burn, whose combination of tequila and spicy mango complemented the ceviche's acidity. A bowl of pumpkin soup followed, warm and comforting, with a silky consistency that made it more than just an interlude. Another drink, Prism Presca, refreshed the palate with cucumber notes and a subtle gin backbone.

For the main course, the kitchen showcased one of its bespoke dishes intended for private dining services. Chorizo vodka pasta provided smoky and savory notes, while slices of wagyu ribeye contributed the buttery richness expected from premium beef—another must-try dish!

Yet perhaps the most interesting addition to the restaurant menu had nothing to do with steak. The lamb brasato ossobuco featured tender meat that practically fell apart with a fork. A red wine sauce deepened the flavors, while a St-Germain cocktail with delicate elderflower notes offered a lighter counterpoint to the richness of the dish.

For diners who prefer seafood, the kitchen also introduced a lobster Thermidor. The French classic arrived with sweet lobster meat coated in a rich, buttery sauce that never overpowered the shellfish itself.

Of course, keeping with the Father’s Day occasion, steaks can be ordered. I recommend dishes ranging from finely marbled Certified Angus Beef to rich Australian Wagyu ,and buttery, melt-in-the-mouth Japanese A5 cuts.

Dessert belonged to Cristina's latest creation, the L'Amour Basque cheesecake. Creamy without being cloying, rich without becoming heavy. Crumbles on the side added a welcome crunch.

Beyond the new dishes, the lunch was also a reminder of what Cristina has built. Carmelo's, recognized in the Michelin Guide's inaugural Philippines selection for 2026, stands as both a continuation and evolution of a family legacy. Her father, the aforementioned late Carmelo "Melo" Santiago, was among the pioneers of serious steak dining in Manila, introducing Certified Angus Beef to the country through Melo's in 1987. Cristina honors that heritage while putting her own stamp on things.

There is sophistication, certainly, but also warmth in the restaurant. The interiors are snazzy, dark wood, gold accents, warm hues, comfy seats. The service, excellent. There is reverence for tradition without being trapped by it.

Steakhouses and fathers somehow go together. I don’t know why. Maybe it is because neither tends to ask for much. Both are comforting in their own way. Both become memories we treasure. And if Father’s Day calls for gathering around a good meal, Carmelo’s makes a persuasive case that there is still room for new traditions alongside old ones.