We were a small group that night at No. 8 China House in Grand Hyatt Manila. Imagine a table full of wine glasses filled with bubbly liquid, and, of course, there was food aplenty. As usual, when friends in the industry got together, we talked about politics, industry “chismis,” love life—or lack thereof—and other foolish, lighthearted things.

In the middle of eating and drinking, everyone smiling and laughing, I started—or tried starting—a story when I noticed my voice was a bit slurred, and me feeling that undeniable buzz when you drink wine. A short burst of stifled laughter came out of my mouth, and the others quieted a bit and asked what’s so funny. I replied, “Why do I feel like I’m getting drunk? We’re only drinking sparkling teas?” We all laughed then, each one realizing and agreeing that they were also indeed feeling a “phantom” buzz, where there should be none. The sparkling teas—the reason we were there—were completely nonalcoholic.

The so-called “phantom” buzz—a term already circulating in drinking circles; I didn’t coin it—refers to a reported effect linked to the placebo response and conditioned associations akin to Pavlovian conditioning. For example, consuming a sparkling, wine-like drink from a wine glass can cue the brain to register it as alcohol, like what happened to me that dinner. When that expectation is in place, familiar tastes or aromas may prompt the release of dopamine, creating a sense of relaxation or mild euphoria even without actual intoxication.

It was all so very interesting, especially since it was the first time it happened to me.

No. 8 China House invited us to try these sparkling teas that prompted my phantom intoxication, a new collaboration with Mindful Sparks, presenting three expressions that bring a twist to traditional flavors: White Peach Earl Grey, Osmanthus Golden Oolong, and Yuzu Genmaicha. Each is crafted with premium tea leaves and natural infusions to complement the restaurant’s Cantonese-inspired menu.

White Peach Earl Grey arrived in a golden-orange hue, carrying aromas of ripe peach and citrusy bergamot. Lightly sweet but anchored by the depth of Earl Grey, it proved a versatile companion across the table—particularly with roast and Peking duck, barbecued pork, and delicate dim sum such as har gow. It also paired well with the dessert, lifting mango pudding and egg tarts, while cutting through the richness of crisp spring rolls.

Osmanthus Golden Oolong, by contrast, was a lighter drink—golden in tone, with a gentle floral fragrance. Its flavor was light, layered, and faintly honeyed, pairing nicely with steamed fish with ginger and scallion, siu mai with crab roe, and Cantonese-style poached chicken. On the sweeter end, it echoed the notes of coconut-and-osmanthus cake and balanced sesame balls with lotus paste.

Yuzu Genmaicha brought the brightest profile of the trio, a greenish-yellow pour with zesty citrus and roasted rice on the nose. The palate combined tangy lift with nutty, earthy undertones, making it a natural match for bolder dishes—stir-fried prawns, fish or squid in spicy garlic sauce, e-fu noodles, and claypot rice. Its acidity sliced through fatty bites like crispy pork belly, while still finding harmony with coconut jelly and papaya pastry.

My absolute favorite, and the one that I kept refilling, was the White Peach Earl Grey. It paired well with everything, in my opinion.

The program underscores the restaurant’s broader push toward pairing beyond wine and spirits, positioning sparkling tea as a thoughtful, nonalcoholic alternative that can move from dim sum lunches to multi-course dinners. The teas are served by the glass or bottle, alongside free-flowing dim sum at lunch on weekdays and the restaurant’s curated tasting menus and à la carte offerings.

Back to the phantom buzz phenomenon, I asked our little group, wondering if the younger generation—who now delight more in mocktails than alcoholic drinks—also feel this buzz, this happy feeling with drinks. Most of them agree with my theory. This nonalcoholic generation might have been spurred by the pandemic, I theorize. They graduated and started work, maybe in the middle of the lockdown, with no place to hang out, no bar for officemates to peer-pressure you into going after a long day of work.

I remember in the early years of the 2010s, when I was still working and living in Makati, we would go to Il Ponticello (or “Ponti” for us millennial yuppies then), now closed, and drink the night away with buckets of beer. There was also, for me, the old M Cafe in Ayala Museum, now also closed. I used to escape work in the middle of the afternoon to drink lychee martinis there, still one of the best I’ve ever tasted.

These sparkling drinks, introduced by Grand Hyatt, are a response to this generation who prefer healthier, nonalcoholic beverages. And kudos to Hyatt for bringing these options in. These are the generation of matcha, kombucha, energy water, yogurt, and other ferments. I’m all for that. But between you and me, I would still go for the real thing. Wine, please!