Sometimes, I forget myself.

At the press lunch for the preview of Ootoya last Thursday, Feb. 26, restaurant staff asked for my drink order. Scanning the menu, I did what I always do as a black coffee drinker. I searched for the darkest option and landed on a cold drink called Yamazaki Coffee. I pointed at the photo and said, “I’ll have that.”

When it arrived, Jerry Angchay, general manager of Federal Brent Retail Inc., seated across from me, pointed at the drink and said “That’s a great choice. One of our favorites. Strong stuff.”

Only then did it register. Yamazaki, of course, is among Japan’s most famous whiskies; Japan’s flagship single malt.

I was thinking to myself, “Should you drink this? You haven’t had breakfast yet.” Seated to my left and perhaps sensing my hesitation to drink, Federal Land Inc. Group Marketing Head Cathy Bengzon leaned over and joked, “It’s a work lunch. Go ahead and drink. I won’t tell your bosses.”

With senior executives seated beside me, I took a cautious sip of the Yamazaki Coffee, priced at P1,050 a glass. One sip and the chorus part of Miki Matsubara’s “Stay With Me” suddenly played in my head. If you know, you know.

The drink had a single oversized block of ice, the Ootoya logo molded into the cube. The coffee was cool and sweet with an earthy depth, chased by the gentle burn of whisky. It was a strong start. I was buzzed. I could feel the warmth rising to my face, that predictable Asian flush.

Lunch had yet to begin.

Ootoya’s arrival in Manila marks the first Philippine outpost of the Tokyo-founded chain, which began in 1958 and has since expanded to more than a hundred stores across Japan and overseas markets including Thailand, Taiwan, and New York.

The brand makes its local debut at the ground floor of Grand Hyatt Manila Residences South Tower in Bonifacio Global City, open to the public now from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Its foundation is washoku, or traditional Japanese home-style cooking. The core offering is teishoku: balanced set meals composed of Japanese premium rice, miso soup, and homemade pickles, alongside a main dish. The format is simple and structured, built for everyday dining.

Among the signature teishoku sets we tried are Chicken Kurozu at P620, featuring fried chicken and vegetables in a sweet and sour vinegar sauce; Sima Hokke Sumibiyaki at P890, grilled atka mackerel served with grated radish; and Salmon Saikyouyaki at P790, grilled salmon marinated in saikyo miso. The Ootoya Teishoku, priced at P690, combines pork, karaage, and ebi fry in one tray.

Grilling plays a central role. Ootoya uses a proprietary system that combines gas heat, ceramic balls and charcoal to achieve precise cooking and a distinct aroma.

The charcoal grill anchors much of the menu items. Saba Sumibiyaki brings salted mackerel to the table with grated radish, while Gindara Saikyouzuke Sumibiyaki features black cod marinated in an original miso blend before it meets the fire. The technique, which combines gas heat, ceramic balls and charcoal, gives the fish a clean sear and measured smokiness.

Beyond the grill, the nabe section offers comfort in a pot. The Kimchi Hotpot simmers sliced pork and vegetables in a spicy broth. Ootoya Yosenabe gathers vegetables, fish, and meat in kombu broth, served bubbling at the table. Beef Sukiyaki Hotpot follows the familiar sweet soy profile of the Japanese classic, with thinly sliced beef and vegetables cooked together in a shallow pan.

Rice bowls provide another entry point. Unagi Jyu layers steamed and grilled eel over rice with the brand’s original sauce. Aburi Salmon Jyu tops rice with lightly seared salmon. Kaisen Don arrives crowned with assorted sashimi over sushi rice, straightforward and generous.

For those inclined toward heavier cuts, wagyu steaks from Kagoshima are available in rib eye and sirloin grades, offered in A5 and A4 selections as well as wagyu options.

Small dishes complete the spread. Homemade gyoza come grilled and served with a soy-based koji dipping sauce. Chicken karaage is flavored with garlic soy before frying. Dashimaki, a Japanese omelette enriched with dashi broth, is softly layered and sliced into neat portions.

Dessert stays within familiar Japanese territory. Souffle pancakes arrive fluffy and soft, while the matcha parfait layers green tea ice cream with fruit, cream, and kuromitsu.

Many ingredients and seasonings are imported from Japan, underscoring the company’s preference for preserving its original flavors rather than significantly adjusting them for local taste.

In the Philippines, Ootoya partners with Federal Brent Retail Inc., an affiliate of Federal Land Group, for its local operations. The BGC branch is designed for families and groups, with two private dining rooms that seat up to 10 guests each.

As the courses rolled out during the preview, trays of rice, soup, and mains formed a steady rhythm across the table. I cradled the Yamazaki Coffee in my hands, savoring every sip, its ice slowly melting.