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The dawning of Osteria Antica

Published Mar 10, 2025 08:41 am
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Welcome to the dining landscape, Osteria Antica.

It’s a brand-new day in the Wildflour Hospitality Group as both restaurateur Ana Lorenzana de Ocampo and chef Walter Manzke personally welcomed us to a preview of their new baby, a showcase of a dining establishment, the Osteria Antica. And while the translation from Italian to English would be "Ancient Inn," there is definitely nothing ancient about the place—and trust this eatery to be the new "in" place of the season!

Located on the sixth level of The Podium, Osteria Antica is one of several food venues specially curated by SM Leasing for its newly conceptualized Podium Social Hall. It’s elevated dining—both metaphorically and literally—with an enviable view of the Metro Manila-Ortigas Central Business District skyline. Beyond the expansive and spacious indoor dining space of Osteria Antica, there’s also a sizable alfresco area that invites guests to romantic sunset cocktails and late-night carousing.

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Chefs Walter and BJ, right before the opening.

With more than 35% of Osteria’s floor area devoted to kitchen and prep space, the layout is a chef’s and kitchen staff’s proverbial dream come true. Chef BJ Montuano was ready to confirm this and couldn’t hide his excitement at being part of this new, exotic "Wild Flower."

It promises to be a curated dining experience that could be described as Wildflour Italian given a major upgrade and coming very close to fine dining.

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Thanks to the interiors by the trusted Lara Fernandez Barrios, Osteria Antica is a curious blend of rustic simplicity with a modern, updated vibe. There’s an Old World charm and elegance, made appropriate for today while still promising warmth. It all complements the traditional handmade pasta, wood-fired pizzas, and attention to detail in the ingredients, such as San Marzano tomatoes and the truffle shavings added tableside.

On the evening I visited Osteria Antica, the plan was to indulge in the Small Bites and Pizzas prepared by Chef Walter. It was literally a foretaste of what the menu would consist of and how they aimed to elevate memories of Wildflour Italian.

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The agnolotti in the foreground, then the braised beef.

The Cauliflower Agnolotti is a must try, as is the braised beef dish. We were served this on a table spoon and it took a lot of will power on my part to keep from grabbing three to four spoons per item, and go on a hoarding spree.

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The mushroom pizza.

The pizzas being handed out were the delicate Mushroom pizza, the spicy pepperoni, and a traditional margherita. My personal choice to come back for would be the mushroom, as the pizza consists of truly generous slices of mushroom that are allowed to dominate the flavors taste, and visual appeal of this pizza.

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The plate of small bites.

I also loved the lobster tartlet accented by floral petals and the foie gras on Italian toast. These were surprisingly tasty, even though light and airy. I appreciated how they were delightfully deceptive in this manner yet rated high on the flavor quotient.

I know I’m oversimplifying, but I’ve always felt that French cuisine is more about sauces, butter, and complex blending and techniques, while Italian cuisine is more basic, focused on the freshness of ingredients, and keeping it earthy and close to nature. So I’m happy to see Osteria Antica create a benchmark for Italian cuisine that remains grounded while still being elegant and marked by tasteful accenting.

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