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A new French twist at One Boni

Published Feb 13, 2025 01:27 am

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Carlo Lorenzana of the Nikkei Food Group has turned his frequent trips to Paris and its legendary bistros into a dining experience that will delight discerning palates. Bistrot Le Coucou, located on the third level of One Bonifacio High Street, offers an authentic Parisian bistro and wine experience, where culinary artistry meets bold flavors. With handcrafted cocktails, bistro classics, and indulgent desserts, it’s an invitation to savor the best of French comfort food. “Coucou,” a charmingly informal French greeting, sets the tone for the restaurant’s warm and welcoming atmosphere.

When I dined at Le Coucou with two of my three sons, the restaurant was still in its early days, but the service was impeccable, the attention to detail commendable, and the ambiance perfect for an engaging meal. Carlo shared that the menu was crafted by Luis Martinez, a Spanish chef putting his own refined touch on traditional French bistro fare.

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Beef tartare
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Pomme frites

The first appetizer we got, the Beef Tartare was a great example of how Luis was mixing it up. The classic French dish, but served with the Le Coucou sauce and lightly "tempura’ed" veggies. The pomme frites could have been regular French fries, but in Luis’ hands, became a potato mille feuille, with grated parmesan cheese, a dollop of caviar, and homemade herbs mayonnaise.
 

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Escargot


 

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Melted cheese

The second French Bistro standard served to us was their escargots, which was snails in a shell, with the classic sauce of butter, parsley, and garlic. Sauce good enough to drink, so I loved how we could dab the fresh sourdough with the sauce. The melted cheese is Bellevaire, France cheese, served with dried figs, shallots, and roasted cashew nuts. Runny to perfection, this was like a French version of the Swiss raclette dish.
 

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Entrecôte and frites

The generous Entrecôte and Frites easily serves 3 to 4 people. The Coucou version of the Cafe de Paris sauce is heavenly, the French fries crisp on the outside but airy inside, and they’re fried in duck confit, gifting them with a special flavor. Not to be missed! And please order it medium rare.
 

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Profiteroles
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Tarte tatin

Classic profiteroles was our first dessert, choux pastry filled with vanilla cream, and topped by a chocolate ganache. The very authentic vanilla bean cream helped elevate this dessert. Tarte tatin was a favorite of my late Mom when we’d visit Paris in the 1980’s; so I loved how its inclusion gave me a touch of nostalgia. The Coucou version is caramelized Granny Smith apples on a millefeuille tart, with chantilly cream on the side.

Bistrot Le Coucou knows how to deftly manage expectations one may have of their Parisian bistro experiences, while providing a twist or surprise here and there on the menu items, so they become Luis Martinez creations. Strong on the flavor and taste elements, it’s recognizably French, with a little Hello! … or Coucou! 

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