Char and broth: The Underbird rises in Makati
Yakitori meets ramen in a rare two-night collaboration
Published Sep 17, 2025 09:10 am
PLAYFUL BOWLS The interiors of The Underbelly, home to inventive ramen and bold collaborations.
Makati’s dining scene is about to get a new spark of smoke and steam. For two nights only, on Sept. 21 and 22, The Underbelly will open its doors for “The Underbird,” a collaborative yakitori-ramen dinner with guest chef Takuto Kato of Birdjovi. Two seatings each night will turn the ramen bar into a stage where the deep comfort of broth and the primal allure of charcoal converge.
Kato-san, originally from Nagoya, has spent five years mastering the art of yakitori. He is chef-owner of the soon-to-open Birdjovi in Makati, and the hand behind Yakitori Ao Chan by Suijin in Cavite, a hidden favorite for authentic Japanese skewers. At The Underbird, he brings three highlights, all kissed by Binchotan coal: Seseri, made from juicy Nichinan dori neck meat; Kurumi Negima, a medley of chicken thigh, leeks, and crisp skin balanced with charred sweetness; and Bonjiri, the luscious tail cut known for its soft, melting bite. Each one is brushed with his own tare sauce, a smoky signature.
“What interests me the most about this collaboration is pairing Kato-san’s authentic traditional yakitori with our non-traditional ramen that often subverts expectations,” says Dan Matutina, co-founder of The Underbelly. “Both dishes have Japanese roots, but we’re presenting them in contrast.”
CITRUS COMFORT A bowl of Yuzu Tori Paitan with Ami Tsukune, rich native chicken broth brightened with yuzu and paired with a silky chicken meatball.
Chefs Jackson Chua and Noel Mauricio lead The Underbelly’s kitchen, and they have built a menu to match Kato-san’s fire. They offer Yuzu Tori Paitan, a rich native chicken broth layered with citrus brightness, served with Ami Tsukune, a chicken meatball rounded out by pork silk fat. The night ends on an unexpected note: ice cream drizzled with sesame oil and paired with chewy black sesame mochi.
“We’ve long been fans of Kato-san and his yakitori from Suijin, and he has been a supporter of our ramen as well,” Chua and Mauricio said in a joint statement. “With the natural affinity between grilled meats and ramen, collaborating with him felt like the most natural choice.”
The meal is rounded by a sake pairing: Hakkaisan Shiboritate Genshu Namasake Echigo De Sourou. Freshly pressed, available only in winter, it is known to pair with yakitori and Japanese chicken hotpot. Philippine Wine Merchants bring it to Manila for this dinner.
FLAVOR TRIO Chefs Jackson Chua and Noel Mauricio of The Underbelly with guest chef Takuto Kato of Birdjovi, the trio behind “The Underbird” collaboration.
The Underbelly, founded by Dan and Tasteless Food Group’s Charles Paw, thrives on reimagining ramen with playful experimentation and inventive technique. Before moving to its current home at The Alley at Karrivin, it once occupied the space where Poison Coffee & Doughnuts stood, a marker of its restless, evolving identity.
Whether you come for smoke, broth, or both, “The Underbird” promises two nights where yakitori meets ramen, tradition meets twist, and Manila diners get a taste of Japan reframed. Reservations are open through bit.ly/underbird, +63 995 217 3796, or @the.underbelly.ph on Instagram.