One of the fondest childhood memories often involves the simplest soup: lugaw, or rice porridge made by simmering rice in water until the grains break apart and thicken the liquid. This humble dish warms the body on a cold morning and chases away fevers like a mother’s warm hug.

Porridge is cooked on every continent, in every town or barrio, using whatever cereal is grown locally. In Hong Kong, the most popular version is congee, a plain rice porridge enriched by an array of add-ons offered at special yum cha restaurants.

These toppings include century eggs, spring onions, crisp fried onions, dried beef jerky, grated ginger, dried fish, steamed chicken and hard-boiled eggs. A bowl of congee can be as simple or as elaborate as one’s budget allows.

Very similar to congee is okayu, a plain rice porridge made with Japanese-style rice—a polished short-grain white rice (hakumai), better known as sushi rice. The most popular variety in Japan for cooking is a japonica rice called Koshihikari.

Classic toppings include green onion, sesame seeds and umeboshi (pickled plums). You can also add cooked chicken, salted salmon, eggs, vegetables, Japanese parsley (mitsuba) and strips of nori.

Goto or arroz caldo?

In the Philippines, there is great confusion when one orders arroz caldo, which traditionally refers to rice porridge with chicken. Often, one gets served goto, which is porridge with pork and beef innards. Be on guard and specify which one you want.

Whatever Pinoy porridge you pick, it is usually cooked with sautéed garlic and ginger browned with rice. The chicken (or meat pieces) is added and stir-fried briefly. Water or stock is poured in, and the whole thing is simmered over low flame until the meat is tender.

Some cooks add a teaspoon of kasubha (local saffron) to color the stock. Goto or arroz caldo is often served with whole hard-boiled eggs.

Champorado is a classic breakfast porridge made with sticky rice and native chocolate. Although classified as a snack or breakfast fare, many serve it as a late-evening treat.

Champorado showcases cacao grown throughout the islands.