It was one of those slow, rainy nights in Makati when comfort comes best with a good meal. Inside the warmly lit dining room of Azuthai, Chef J. Gamboa and his sister, Malu Gamboa Lindo, welcomed a small group for an intimate dinner. This was no grand launch or loud celebration. It was personal, quiet, and deeply satisfying — a reflection of the food, and of the people who made it.

Azuthai sits on the ground floor of the MilkyWay Building, a landmark for Manila diners. The building is also home to El Cirkulo, Milky Way Café, and Tsukiji, each one part of the culinary story the Gamboa family has built across decades. That story started with their mother and her vision for Milky Way Café in the 1950s, and today, it continues with J. Gamboa’s thoughtful menus and Malu’s steady stewardship of the family’s restaurants.

Established in 2008, Azuthai offers Thai cuisine prepared by Thai chefs, using ingredients that keep close to the cuisine’s roots. The night’s menu featured new specials created by the restaurant’s Chef de Cuisine, Kanjana, who was introduced to the guests by Chef J. himself. Originally trained at Rajabhat Suandusit Institute in Thailand, Chef Kanjana’s résumé spans prestigious kitchens, from Bangkok to Dubai. She has worked in hotels like Siam Kempinski and The Metropolitan Bangkok, and at Michelin-starred Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin.

That background was clear in the evening’s dishes. Dinner opened with Yam Som O Kathi, a pomelo salad with prawns, chicken, toasted coconut, and a coconut-lime dressing that was creamy but light. The Som Tam Khanom Jaan followed, a spicy papaya and noodle salad with long beans, crushed peanuts, and tamarind-chili dressing. The heat was clean and sharp, balanced with crunch and acidity.

Fried starters kept things lively. Goong Hom Pha, prawn spring rolls with sweet-spicy sauce, came golden and crisp. The Pla Muk Thod, deep-fried squid, was equally crisp, the sauce bringing sweetness with just enough heat. Khao Pad Kra Prow, Thai basil fried rice with a fried egg, added a filling, earthy touch.

The standout main was Massaman Khan Gaeh, a Massaman curry lamb shank with shallots, potatoes, and peanuts. The lamb was tender and the curry full-bodied, a rich mix of spice and sweetness that paired well with the rainy evening. Dessert featured Ruamit, a Thai-style halo-halo with coconut milk, and a Mango Sticky Rice Ice Cream Sundae, which fused warmth and cold, sweet and sticky, in a small glass.

Thai iced tea and lemongrass iced tea were poured alongside, though it was the company that truly filled the room. Chef J. and Malu moved easily from guest to guest, making sure everyone was fed, heard, and at home.

While Azuthai held the focus that night, the conversation naturally turned to the other Gamboa-led kitchens. At El Cirkulo, Chef J. recently introduced two new dishes. First is Torrenzos, a tapa made with crisp-fried, salt-cured pork belly, served with a 65-degree egg sauce, Grana Padano cheese, and Pedro Ximenez vinegar. It is a rich and savory starter, especially good with a glass of sangria. The second is Paella de Costillas de Vaca, a rice dish topped with braised U.S. beef short ribs and finished with an orange rind and parsley gremolata. It’s hearty, warm, and fitting for the season.

These additions reflect the same philosophy seen at Azuthai: thoughtful food rooted in tradition, elevated with care.

That evening at Azuthai felt less like a media dinner and more like being invited into a family space. The rain fell steadily outside, but inside, plates kept arriving and conversation didn’t slow. Chef Kanjana stayed mostly behind the scenes, but her presence was felt in the balance and elegance of every dish. Chef J., ever gracious, never once turned the spotlight toward himself. But in every detail — in the pacing, the welcome, the cooking — his quiet leadership was clear.

Azuthai is open daily for lunch and dinner. It is located at the ground floor of the MilkyWay Building, 900 Arnaiz Avenue, corner Paseo de Roxas, Makati City. For reservations, visit azuthai.com.