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Elements at Taupe Dining melds nature and technique in new tasting menu

Chef Francis Tolentino's seasonal tasting menu explores the classical elements through precise cooking and thoughtful pairings in Bonifacio Global City.

Published Jul 11, 2025 07:19 am
The interiors
The interiors
At Taupe Dining in Bonifacio Global City, Chef Francis Tolentino continues to refine his quiet but focused approach to contemporary Filipino fine dining. The latest iteration of the restaurant’s seasonal tasting menu, simply called ELEMENTS, finds inspiration in nature’s core forces—air, water, fire, and earth—and draws them into the plate through discipline and transformation.
There is no flamboyance here, no gratuitous theatrics. The spectacle lies in the details. Now on its third cycle, ELEMENTS is offered in two paths: a ten-course tasting menu at ₱7,800 or an eight-course version at ₱6,500. Both reflect the same culinary philosophy. The longer experience adds two additional dishes: a dry-aged duck course and a quartet of local-inspired petit fours. For those looking for the full narrative, the ten-course format is where it all comes together.

The journey begins with an amuse-bouche pairing that sets the tone for precision. A sweet potato tart with guyabano espuma delivers tartness and cream in a single bite, while a lemongrass brioche is topped with a warm, custardy butter made from fresh local river prawns.
This is followed by a signature course that has become part of Taupe's identity: blue crab ice cream served as a sandwich between crisp chicken skin biscuits. The dish is layered with mango gel, Osetra caviar, and cold smoked roe, yielding a rich, oceanic sweetness that is both bold and controlled. It’s a dish that wears its ambition lightly.
The wet-aged hamachi is delicate but purposeful, set with fresh longan, avocado purée, and shavings of calamansi snow. A winter melon salad comes next, its ingredients spun into fine spaghetti and combined with kaong, pear, peach granita, and salmon roe cured in gin. It plays with cool and warm, acid and fat, in a way that remains light on the palate.
Scallops from Hokkaido, smoked and cured, arrive with Japanese corn and a streak of shrimp head fat, while grilled Iberico pluma is threaded onto sugarcane skewers, served with a bright pear salsa. The meat is tender, the sweetness from the cane barely noticeable but present enough to ground the smokiness.
Hokkaido Scallops and Corn
Hokkaido Scallops and Corn
Chocolate and Pistachio Entremet
Chocolate and Pistachio Entremet
A5 Wagyu Balbacua
A5 Wagyu Balbacua
Blue Crab Ice Cream Sandwich
Blue Crab Ice Cream Sandwich
Amuse Bouche
Amuse Bouche
Before the heavier courses, a palate cleanser called 24K Magic delivers citrus brightness through fermented guava gel, lime pandan syrup, and gold dust. It’s a moment of levity before the complexity of the meat dishes.
Exclusive to the ten-course set, the dry-aged duck is served two ways. The grilled breast comes veiled in Keso de Bola and glazed in smoked truffle sauce, while a quenelle of braised duck sits in a coconut ash reduction. It is a layered dish that feels rooted in Filipino flavors but executed with quiet European precision.
Then comes the A5 Wagyu Balbacua. A grilled ribeye slice rests beneath a black squid ink pasta blanket, supported by kadyos purée and a rich beef tendon demi-glace. This is the deepest, most decadent point of the meal, and it is deserved.
Chef Francis Tolentino
Chef Francis Tolentino
Dessert begins with the Burnt Brazo, made with local passion fruit, calamansi, and vanilla egg custard under a lightly charred Italian meringue. It’s nostalgic but rethought. The second sweet plate is a chocolate and pistachio entremet layered with pistachio butter, sponge, and black sesame dark chocolate. If you’ve chosen the ten-course path, a final sequence of petit fours follows: turon turned into a smoked banana mousse cylinder topped with caviar, bibingka reimagined as salted egg semifreddo with coconut custard, hopia as mung bean ganache in pinipig tuile, and karyoka formed from glutinous rice and purple yam with a hint of rosehip.
Drinks are just as considered. Four pairing options are available: a standard wine set (₱2,800), a premium wine progression (₱4,500), a cocktail pairing (₱2,200), and a zero-proof alternative (₱2,200), all designed to accompany either the eight- or ten-course menus.
Dry-aged Duck
Dry-aged Duck
Winter Melon Salad
Winter Melon Salad
Pinoy Petit Fours
Pinoy Petit Fours
Burnt Brazo
Burnt Brazo
Palate Cleanser
Palate Cleanser
Wet Aged Hamachi
Wet Aged Hamachi
Smoked Iberico Skewers
Smoked Iberico Skewers
Wines on the standard list include a 2022 Cruse Wine Co. St. Laurent Petillant Naturel, a 2020 Huet Le Haut Lieu Sec Chenin Blanc, a 2020 Finca San Martin Crianza Tempranillo, and Casali Viticultori Lambrusco 1900. The premium set adds a 2021 Cristom Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir and a 2016 Château Luchey-Halde Bordeaux.
Cocktails follow their own seasonal logic. Highlights include the ARC Black Bamboo Gin with pink guava and salabat soda; Juventud, which uses tapuey and lambanog with banana peel cordial; and Kaamulan, a bourbon and amaretto drink fat-washed with local peanut butter and laced with cacao bitters. A non-alcoholic counterpart mimics the originals in texture and complexity, featuring drinks like the Dramanzi Fruit Fizz and the Chock-Not Latte, a silky oat milk and sesame concoction tinged with chili oil.
Taupe does not shout for attention. It speaks in soft clarity, with Chef Tolentino and his team channeling discipline, respect for ingredients, and a thoughtful narrative into every course. The ELEMENTS menu runs exclusively at Taupe, located on the ground floor of The Maridien Tower 2, 26th Street, BGC. The restaurant is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Reservations and more details are available at www.taupedining.com.
There’s no fire and brimstone here. Just elemental precision.
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