A French-Filipino table story unfolds at Brutal by Wadough's
One hopes Manille's soulful, short-lived dinner is just the beginning
Published Jun 25, 2025 07:51 am
BRUTAL BEAUTY The unadorned concrete facade of Brutal by Wadough’s reflects its namesake, embracing a raw, brutalist aesthetic that mirrors the restaurant’s focus on stripped-down, thoughtful dining
Yesterday, June 25, and today, June 26, Brutal by Wadough’s in Quezon City hosted Manille, a special two-night dinner that brought together French-American chef Jeffrey Le Bon and Filipino-Chinese chef Wado Tan Siman for a rare collaboration. The eight-course menu, paired with three cocktails, offered a thoughtful and delicious meeting of French-Mediterranean technique and Filipino comfort food.
The event, while limited in run, felt like the start of something more. According to Wado, some of the standout dishes may be retained in the restaurant’s future menus, a promising sign for diners who missed the fleeting experience.
The dinner opened with Ensalada, a chilled tomato soup poured over salmon pastrami, salted egg, and pako. The soup was bright, the eggs rich, and the pako added a crisp, local texture.
KINDRED PALATES Chefs Jeffrey Le Bon and Wado Tan Siman stand side by side, bringing together two distinct culinary journeys in Manille, where French technique meets Filipino soul in an honest, collaborative meal.
The Dinakdakan came next, reimagined as a single bite inside a crisp panipuri shell. With ratatouille relish, sinamak jelly, and edamame, it was a one-bite flavor bomb that was punchy, acidic, and gone too soon.
Pugita followed, featuring grilled octopus over harissa sweet potato and onion cream. The tenderness of the octopus met smoky sweetness in a quietly confident dish.
The Aligue course brought Japanese scallops over shellfish risotto, enriched with crab fat butter and finished with crispy chicken skin. It was decadent but clean, bridging French technique with Filipino indulgence.
Pares was another high point, combining lamb pares with garlic confit arancini, spring onion espuma, and a touch of balsamic. It packed bold flavor while staying composed, a thoughtful nod to the street-side original.
Pato was the table’s favorite. Seared duck came with blueberry gastrique, Mediterranean pearl couscous, and melted red cabbage. The balance of sweetness, acidity, and richness made it both refined and deeply comforting.
Desserts arrived with purpose. Peras was a mille-feuille filled with chocolate whiskey cream, poached pear, caramel, and almond crumble, offering depth and texture. Uling closed the meal with charcoal meringue, marmalade sponge, calamansi curd, brown butter pinipig, sesame mousse, and fresh fruit. Tart and tropical, it tasted like a memory reimagined.
SEA RICHNESS In Aligue, Japanese scallops sit atop a rich shellfish risotto, elevated by crab fat butter and a crisp crown of chicken skin.
COOL CONTRAST Ensalada opens the meal with chilled tomato soup poured over salmon pastrami, salted egg, and pako, offering a refreshing balance of brine, creaminess, and crisp local greens
FLAVOR BOMB A single bite of Dinakdakan, reimagined in a crisp panipuri shell with ratatouille relish, sinamak jelly, and edamame, delivers sharp acidity and umami in quick, clean succession.
The dinner was a meeting of culinary minds with contrasting but complementary styles. Jeffrey, trained at the Culinary Institute of America, has spent decades cooking in the United States, Hong Kong, and across Asia. His background includes time in Michelin-starred restaurants and high-level kitchens where precision and polish are paramount. Wado, a food stylist and chef known for Wadough’s and Atina Café, blends Filipino flavors with global influence, balancing whimsy and restraint. His roots in local pastry and flavor development have earned him a reputation for playful but thoughtful cuisine.
Their collaboration took place in a setting as distinct as the food. Brutal by Wadough’s is tucked in an unassuming corner of Quezon City. The restaurant’s structure is concrete and unadorned, defined by simple, straight lines. Decidedly brutalist in design, the space inspired the name. Inside, there’s little ornamentation, just focus and clarity, both reflected in the food.
Described as “a celebration of roots and reinvention,” Manille lived up to its promise. The food was excellent, soulful in intent, grounded in memory, and elevated by skilled technique. One hopes this is only the beginning of more such nights at Brutal.
Brutal by Wadough’s is located at Sto. Tomas corner Nicanor Ramirez, Quezon City. For inquiries, contact +63 954 308 7638.