Words by Marie Cabili Arcellana
The Philippines is opportunely located in the Cacao Belt. That is, within 20 miles of either side of the earth’s equator. But, even though our rich soil is suitable for growing the amazing “chocolate tree”, and cacao production is increasing, we are not exactly known for producing what is arguably the most sought-after delicacy in the world. Not yet, anyway.
Perhaps, the key lies with local chocolatiers like Noel V. Barquera of Ormoc, Leyte.
Noel’s work with cacao began when he experienced difficulty in procuring good dark chocolate for his wife Celeste, who had gone on the keto diet in 2018. He decided then to learn how to make his own chocolate, and has not stopped since. His loving act of service towards Celeste bore fruit in what is now known as the Alto Peak Chocolate Store.
I was introduced to Alto Peak on a recent trip to the south, when our group’s gracious dinner host, City Mayor Lucy Torres-Gomez, gushed about her beloved city. Among the many local attractions that she proudly talked about was the chocolate cafe and store, which she directed the city tourism officers to bring our group to, after our meal was over. We went, the good tourists that we were. Plus, who could resist another round of dessert?
The inviting café decorated in unassuming, charming Filipino style, is located in a quiet, semi-residential area of Ormoc. It also functions as a mini-museum or gallery of sorts for local artists. The first thing there that caught my eye was a large painting on the wall by the entrance. It was a map of the route of the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade, educating visitors on how the first cacao trees were brought to the Philippines from Mesoamerica by Spanish colonizers in the mid-17th century.
I also noticed a basket of fresh cacao fruit of varying shades of green and orange and red on the countertop. I realized that, even though I have lived most of my life in the tropics, I had never before seen a fresh cacao fruit, much less tasted one. Nor had anyone in our party. Upon learning this, Noel immediately took one of the fruits from the basket, and sliced it in half for us, revealing a tight wad of seeds inside, individually blanketed by silvery white flesh. The fruit reminded me of the taste of the guyabano, only with a milder flavor. Albeit pleasant-tasting, the meat was scant. No wonder we never hear of anyone raving about the cacao fruit itself, but only of its by popular by-product from the cacao “beans”. The “beans” that are in fact, actually fermented, then roasted, cacao seeds. Neil also showed us samples of “beans” he had on display.
We perused the assortment of chocolate products for sale. There were chocolate bars and packs of varying percentages of cacao content, from 70% to 100%, all vegan and keto-friendly. There was tablea, of course, plus chocolate nibs and bon bons of different flavors. Gift packs containing chocolate, tablea, a batidor and a traditional metal pitcher contained in colorful banig bags were also on display. The batidors are made by inmates at the Leyte Regional Prison, the banig bags by the women of Baybay, Leyte.
When we finally sat down around our table, Noel himself served us his popular vegan sikwate (the Cebuano version of hot chocolate), made from his own tablea and coconut milk. He demonstrated how to use the batidor, and poured sikwate, with much flair, into our ceramic cups. The Alto Peak sikwate is a bestseller at the restaurant for a reason, we all agreed. Next, we had some delicious Tsokoleyt Moron (chocolate suman with peanuts), which is a personal childhood favorite. Then we had amazing Puto Maya (sticky rice with a hint of ginger) with some of Cebu’s world-renowned mangoes. The puto maya was beautifully plated with a sculptural banana leaf for decoration. And just as we thought we had our fill, Noel brought out another well-received treat- some incredibly tasty dukot (burnt rice) ice cream. Once, again, the oohs and ahhhs. The dukot ice cream reminded me of Japan’s hojicha, but with a more pronounced roasted flavor.
Back in Manila, I finally tasted the Alto Peak chocolate from my goodie bag gifted by Mayor Lucy. From the first bite, I was pleasantly surprised to find it buttery smooth and refined, without the graininess and lack of depth of flavor I have found in most commercially-available local brands. The cacao flavor beautifully held its own. I was impressed, and got excited about Filipino chocolate again.
Looking back, perhaps, my enriching experience at the store in Ormoc had favorably influenced my tastebuds. Or, perhaps not, and Noel Barquera’s chocolate really can stand up to the most discerning palate. Either way, he gives me hope that sooner than later, Philippine chocolate will finally have its place, shining bright in the global marketplace.
Editor's note:
Marie Cabili Arcellana was born in Iligan City and graduated from the University of the Philippines in Diliman. She was a member of the Bayanihan Philippine Dance Company. She and her husband of 29 years, Ben Arcellana, lived in Cebu, Bangkok and various cities around Metro Manila before relocating to Dallas, Texas where they lived for 18 years.
Their older daughter Isabel is married to Devon Gates and they live in New York, while their younger daughter Katrina is married to James Murphy and they reside in Washington, DC.
As an empty-nester, Marie served on the board of Dallas’ Southern Methodist University Mothers’ Club, and on the Collin County Appraisal Review Board.