It is familiarity with our regional culinary traditions that helps us better understand our history and allows us to forge a solid connection between ourselves and our nation.
The great Kulinarya Tagala expedition
Navigating the culinary map of the Southern Tagalog region, particularly the provinces of Quezon and Laguna
May 12, 2023 00:46 AM
At a glance
Despite its relatively small land mass, the Philippines is extensively segmented into administrative divisions of 17 regions, 81 provinces, 148 cities, 1,486 municipalities, and 42,029 barangays. This aspect of the Southeast Asian country makes Filipino culture so diverse while centered on family, religion, art, and food.
Focus on national cuisines turns cultures into monoliths as it disregards regional differences in cooking and eating. In conversations at the dining table, we tend to give much attention to the big picture rather than making the most out of the nuances drawn from our archipelagic roots. It is, however, familiarity with our regional culinary traditions that helps us better understand our history and allows us to forge a solid connection between ourselves and our nation.
Thanks to our unlimited access to information today, we have started taking more interest in what we eat. There is a growing number of institutions now at the fore of promoting our culinary customs and traditions, from the Philippine Heritage Movement to San Miguel Foods Culinary Center (SMFCC), which has aggressively organized food tours that highlight the best of the Philippines.
SMFFC’s latest exploration zeroed in on the Southern Tagalog region, a place that, although conveniently just a few hours’ drive from Metro Manila via the Skyway System, South Luzon Expressway, and STAR Tollway, is not often talked about in the food scene.
“Our last food tour in the region was back in 2012, and we’re excited to be back to rediscover the unique flavors of Southern Tagalog cuisine and explore new food destinations in Laguna and Quezon,” explains SMFCC manager Llena Tan Arcenas. “In many ways, it’s the pandemic that helped bring about a number of the stops we are featuring. On the other hand, for some that are considered old favorites, it is all about adaptation and innovation while staying true to the core of Tagalog cuisine.”
The two-day culinary excursion aligns with San Miguel Corporation (SMC)’s relentless efforts to boost economic recovery, specifically for local industries in the regions, with greater sustainability in mind.
Aurora Filipino cuisine
First stop was the Aurora Filipino cuisine at KM 83 National Highway Barangay Duhat 4009 Santa Cruz, Laguna. The dining area is built and accessorized with repurposed materials like gate grilles, bird cages, metal bric-a-bracs, and wine bottles, to name a few, lending the place a rustic vibe easy on the eye.
Chef Theodore Day Salonga and patissier Gel Salonga-Datu laid the foundations of the restaurant in 2016, aimed to showcase heirloom and local dishes. The brother-sister co-owners named the establishment after their maternal grandmother, Aurora, respected for her hospitality and knack for entertaining.
When the Covid-19 health crisis hit, Aurora Filipino cuisine, like many other businesses, had to close temporarily. To survive, the Salonga siblings pivoted to offering food in frozen vacuum-packed formats, only accommodating, as quarantine measures eased, small groups and functions. Today, Aurora Filipino cuisine found a new home inside the charming Ted’s Bed and Breakfast compound.
Brunch consisted of Mini Pancakes and Bacon, Pan de Coco, Salmon Omelette, Chicken Adobo sa Dilaw, Inalamangang Baboy, and Sinugno na Tilapia created with fresh coconut sourced from the restaurant’s backyard. The meal was capped off with fresh fruits, Pandan Iced Tea, and L’OR Essenso Brazilian 3-in-1 Coffee and Colombian 2-in-1 Coffee, which served as excellent accompaniments to Aurora’s popular Torta de Pili.
Linang ni LK
Next site was Linang ni LK, a farm resort in Barangay Kalyaat, Sitio Pandak 4328 Lucban, Quezon. Owned by Francis Ocoma, otherwise recognized as Lakwatserong Kusinero or LK, the farm-to-kitchen concept was conceived in April of 2019 out of the chef’s love for food and agriculture.
Chef LK personally cultivates most of the ingredients he uses. He expanded his vision in 2020, building accommodations within the farm for a unique farm-cation experience.
Participants were welcomed with Ube Taw, purple yam-flavored sweet, glutinous rice cake with Magnolia Gold Label ube ice cream, garnished with caramelized coconut milk. This is paired with Pancit Lucban, a delectable and colorful noodle dish topped with longganisang Lucban and edible flowers.
The house barista later conducted a coffee demonstration on making Kape Salay and Kape Pandan. The former is an aromatic coffee drink prepared using San Mig Crema 3-in-1 white coffee and Magnolia fresh milk. The latter, the no-sugar counterpart, uses San Mig sugarfree 3-in-1 coffee original and fresh milk.
Bukid Amara
Famous for its breathtaking landscape of edible flowers, man-made lake, and several greenhouses, shelter to flowering plants, herbs, and edible greens, is Bukid Amara at Sitio Aramin Barangay, Lucban, 4328 Quezon, only eight minutes by car from Linang ni LK. Behind it is the three-peaked volcano at the boundary of Quezon and Laguna, Mt. Banahaw.
Proprietor Michael Caballes likens his acreage, which has been receiving recognitions left and right for its innovative farming solutions, to an Amorsolo painting.
Mike, as his peers call him, has dedicated himself to modernizing agriculture via his flagship brand, Grab & Grow, providing courses on hydroponics and greenhouse production. His mission is to impart an effective solution to traditional farming challenges.
A presentation on different melon types from around the world, all grown at Bukid Amara kicked off the tour. Dished out this time were Floral Spring Rolls stuffed with Magnolia chicken breast, edible flowers, egg omelet, and vermicelli noodles. For refreshments, a sampler of organic edible flowers Cucumber and Citrus Quencher.
Rodillas Yema Cake
Next stop was Rodillas Yema Cake by Monica and Jett Bakeshop, owned by Vincent and Juliet Rodillas. Upon arrival, attendees were greeted with the aroma of freshly baked goods. A brisk tour at the state-of-the-art manufacturing plant erected in 2014 followed. The bakery is at A. Mabini Street corner Lucban-Tayabas Road, Tayabas City, Quezon.
A favorite among families in Tayabas City, Rodillas Yema Cake has become among Quezon’s most iconic local delicacies. The yema cake uses Magnolia buttercup. Also served was the Cheese Ensaymada with Yema, a distinct twist on the classic Filipino pastry, developed with the help of the SMFCC team. It features a fluffy ensaymada filled with creamy yema and topped with a generous amount of cheese.
Jardin de Pio
Next destination was the Jardin de Pio, an al fresco dining concept close to the Padre de Pio sanctuary in Barangay Gibanga, at Pan-Philippine Highway, Tayabas, 4322 Quezon.
Founded in September last year by Mafel Lagos, Bernard Sollestre, and five other friends who share a love for food, the Jardin de Pio pays homage to Saint Pio of Pietrelcina. It boasts of using the finest ingredients to create beloved Italian dishes. Through its food and hospitable service, the establishment strives to showcase the same passion as Padre Pio as well as his sense of community.
Pan de Ajo got the ball rolling for dinner. It was a plain sandwich with a spread of Magnolia Gold Butter Salted. Antipasto Jardin Salad came after, which was a medley of green mango, lettuce, roasted tomatoes, and bagoong. Gambas Aligue, meanwhile, was made of creamy Magnolia all-purpose cream and real mayonnaise. For carbs were the Aglio Olio Pasta with crispy Purefoods corned beef, the Jardin De Pio Pizza with a San Miguel Pale Pilsen-infused crust then generously covered with Purefoods deli beef bacon, and the Paella Pollo of Magnolia chicken timplados roasters smoked pepper roast.
For libation, an invigorating San Miguel Beer Sangria was served. Desserts were the Panna Cotta, a gelatin of Magnolia all-purpose cream, and the Silvanas made with Magnolia gold butter unsalted.
Entertainment was rondalla music and Quezon’s cultural brand, the Tagayan Ritual, curated by gastro diplomacy advocate, 2023 Centennial Tourism Awardee and Fantasia Travel and Tours proprietor Maria Cristina Decal.
Seves Hotel and Resort
Everyone retired for the night at Seves Hotel & Resort, which only opened in August last year on the pristine beaches of Sariaya. The resort is named after Severiano or “Seve,” the father of the owner Gerardo Jaspio, who hails from Guisguis, Sariaya. Seves features world-class amenities that integrate artworks and designs reflecting the area’s flora, fauna, people, and traditions.On the last day, diners partook of a buffet breakfast featuring local bread from Malunggay Pandesal to Pinagong, as well as Bake Best Bakehouse Whole Wheat Japanese Loaf served with Magnolia Gold butter salted and Magnolia Cheezee. The egg station had Magnolia brown eggs, Purefoods cooked ham, Magnolia Quickmelt cheese, chopped mushrooms, bell peppers, and tomatoes.
Other local breakfast staples were the crispy Bonuan fish, longganisang Lucban, Purefoods Classic Honeycured Thick Cut Bacon, Chef’s Selection Sausage Patty, and Chef’s Selection Chicken Tocino. These dishes were complemented with fresh fruits, tea, and a variety of hot coffee options such as San Mig Sugar-free 3-in-1 Coffee Original, San Mig Crema 3-in-1 White Coffee, and L’OR Essenso Rich and Aromatic 2-in-1 Coffee.
Over an hour’s drive from Seves Hotel & Resort was the final stop of the gourmet trip, Sitio de Amor Farm Resort found at Purok Paraiso, San Antonio, San Pablo City, 4000 Laguna. The farm spans several hectares, teeming with priceless antiques, heirloom pieces, and wooden furniture crafted by the owner.
Owners Amor and George Bondad led the tour that included a visit to the Caluag House of Tomas Morato Sr., constructed in 1920 and originally located in Calauag, Quezon. A feast was prepared at Café Gaudencio, right below the Caluag house. The sumptuous al fresco meal included pako salad, sinigang na hipon sa buko made with fresh Tayabas shrimps, sinantolan of grated santol rind stewed in coconut milk with shrimps, slow cooked and tender sinaing na bangus, sinaing na tulingan, grilled chicken Inasal using Magnolia Chicken Timplados Inasal, and inihaw na liempo paired with kulawo (banana blossoms in smoked gata vinaigrette), mustasa salad, and atsarang kamias.
Lunch ended with the puto bumbong glazed with Magnolia Gold butter salted and topped with grated Quickmelt, leche flan, and macapuno.
Sitio de Amor
Everyday Eden Lifestyle + Cafe, owned by Beth Amat, took care of the meticulous food preparation and the beautiful tablescape at Sitio de Amor. Beth, who also runs Eve & Co Floral and Events Styling, had set up Everyday Eden amid the pandemic to create an organic garden that promotes sustainable food production. Today, Everyday Eden offers dining experiences by appointment at Barangay Bungoy, Dolores, Quezon, just a short 20-minute drive from Sitio de Amor.
The Sitio de Amor feast went on as Antonas Bread and Pastries, owned by Emmanuel ‘Hobbie’ Enriquez, was brought over from Lucena City, Quezon. The menu included chicken empanada made with Magnolia chicken breast, taco turnover, and crème brulee puff pastries, cheese rolls filled with Magnolia Cheezee, and eclairs flavored with coffee, chocolate, caramel, pistachio, and lemon.
Chef Hobbie and his wife started Antonas during the pandemic as a means of making a living. The store was named after Hobbie’s late grandparents. What began as a makeshift kitchen in their home has now expanded to include a small bakeshop that is well-known in Lucena City for its dedication to using only the freshest, highest quality ingredients.