The Elements of Flavor is an ongoing collaborative culinary series that Flame at Discovery Primea has been pursuing for some time. The latest incarnation happened last weekend, and showcased a four-hands dinner that highlighted the culinary wizardry of guest Chef Him Uy de Baron and Primea Executive Chef Luis Chikiamco. Billeted as Creating Harmonies with Nikkei Cuisine, the special dinner was composed of Tiraditos, an appetizer taco, a filling Soup/Broth, two main courses, and followed by a sweet ending via a dessert course. The tiraditos are Peruvian-style sashimi cuts, complemented by a spicy chili sauce that, traditionally, would be South American in provenance. Both Japanese and Chinese culinary traditions have seeped into Peruvian cuisine thanks to the migration of these two nationalities as the railroad was being built during the last century. This, in fact, echoes what happened in the American West in the 19th century. It’s said by some historians that this was in fact the same wave, heading further south as job opportunities beckoned. Whatever the case may be, it’s led to a rich intermingling of cuisines that’s now celebrated globally. The first pair of Tiraditos that was served was the Tuna, and the Scallops. The Tuna was crab rémoulade rolled in tuna, with ponzu and compressed melon. The Scallops, was thinly sliced raw scallops, with red radish, cilantro, cherry tomatoes and aji amarillo (yellow chili peppers). From this first course alone, the blending of distinct flavors—of how it was reminiscent of Japanese, but with something new on the table—was marked, and appreciated. The Unagi Chawanmushi and the Tebasaki
The Unagi, was crispy eel sitting on chawanmushi, and a potato chip, with soy-dashi. While the Tebasaki, had a wonderfully crisp on the outside grilled and salted chicken wing, with chimichurri pickled onion. Again, the two dishes were playful and inventive, Much like an exalted fragrance, it was about layers. Our Anticucho was a soft shell, squid ink taco, with grilled octopus, miso hummus, and salsa creole. The blending of the salsa with a miso-flavored hummus earned this taco high points. In fact, Chefs Him and Luis had me with the miso hummus. The Pollo a La Brasa was slides of Jasper-grilled chicken, with a chicken gyoza, all swimming in a rich chicken broth. This was like a meal unto itself, and beyond the broth, both Issa and I especially loved the combining of the cut of chicken with the gyoza. A Chilean sea bass, with aji amarillo cream, a shiso leaf and a dollop of Ikura was our first main course. I liked the touch of the shiso leaf as a palate cleanser. Pollo A La Brasa
The Short Ribs The second main course was short ribs with aji panca, the ribs sous vide and grilled; served with kamameshi, egg yolk and furikake. The kamameshi brought home how we were in Manila, and the two chefs knew that they had to include a Rice dish. The mushrooms and edamame in the rice bowl were great dishes, enhancing the flavor of the rice. For dessert, we had the picarones, comprised of sweet potato doughnuts, with shoyu-caramel ice cream—the ice cream being the highlight here. The Soft Shell Taco with Octopus.
As Chef Luis was explaining, the Elements of Flavor series happens every two to three months, and revolves around one special day, when the two chefs offer something special for those who are ready to participate. It’s all about pushing forward and upgrading the Filipino palate, extending on what we’re exposed to. The culinary traditions in themselves may be familiar to us and the local market; but it’s I how the two chefs collaborate and interpret these traditions that make these evening such intriguing ones. Kudos to Chef Him and to Chef Luis— their "Nikkei Harmonies" resounded, and we were two extremely satisfied customers. Picarones dessert Chef Him Uy de Baron, Issa Litton, Chef Luis Chikiamco, and your author