The Spanish chef tells his gastronomic tale in ‘Re-Encounters,’ his latest tasting menu that takes diners on a culinary journey to the Basque region

Chele Gonzalez has created his most intimate degustación yet, inspired by his recent trip to his coastal home turf, Cantabria in Spain. Before the pandemic, the Gallery by Chele co-owner would only be able to spend, at most, a week of vacation time in his hometown, which in most cases served only as a jump off point to other places in Europe. In 2021, however, Chele took the chance to reconnect with his family and stayed for six months in his childhood place on the north coast of Spain.

“Whenever I am in Europe, I spend very little time with my family. I miss them. This time I lived there,” says Chele, who has spent the past 11 years in the Philippines. Chele’s extended holiday was a special one. He was reunited with the land of his memories, his origins, his heritage, and more important, as important as the company of his 89-year-old mother, the food of his youth.

“This tells my story, my feelings, emotions, and how I changed. I want to bring you with me on a journey through the Basque region,” explains Chele on the multi-course menu titled “Re-Encounters.” The menu comprises some of the best dishes of Cantabria translated with the philosophy of Gallery by Chele using responsibly-sourced local ingredients.

Designed to be as immersive as possible, guests are transferred to three distinct areas in the Gallery throughout the meal. They are also given a map of Chele’s favorite food spots and recommended places in his coastal home village, as well as across the Basque Region, from San Sebastián to the Asturias, along the coast of the Bay of Biscay.

The gastronomic excursion begins at the bar, where diners are greeted with photographs of a beautiful beach cliff in Cantabria taken by Chele himself. With the image of the sandy shore, a Kalimotxo, the Gallery’s refreshing take on the cola-based sangria popular in the Basque Country, is served.

Kicking off the Re-Encounters is a three-segment starter called “Destination” that traces some of the important settings in Chele’s humble beginnings in the culinary industry. He trained in the culinary meccas of Bilboa and San Sebastián.

First is the “Cantabria,” where the chef was born in Torrelavega. It is composed of the iconic Bravas, fried calamari in a brioche bun with parsley and anchovy, as well as a Tortilla de Patatas, a mini-pie of the Spanish omelet.

Next is the “Tapas.” There’s the Pulpo La Gallega, octopus bits in potato foam topped with crispy fried tapioca, sprinkled with paprika; the okoy-like Gambas made of suahe crackers with gambas al ajillo and shrimp head mayo; and béchamel-based croquettes with mayo, chicharon, and Cebu lechon.

Last is “San Sebastián,” two canapés: of crab with meringue bread; and smoked pastrami with tomato, basil, dill mayo, and tomato marmalade. All of the bites are really good, with their refined flavors and compositions.

“The Journey” is the centerpiece, the actual 10-course portion of the dinner.

With its contrasting fruity and savory flavors, Raw stands out with its cured tuna carpaccio with pickled shallots, piparas chili, and gazpacho sorbet. The Pilpil, meanwhile, is kokotxas or Basque fish stew of bangus belly in a collagen sauce made out of belly fat emulsified in olive oil and garlic.

Chele’s love for eggs reflects in the Huevos cons Jamon or eggs cured with ham. The soupy poached egg from Bataan goes well with the beef truffle and Baguio bean jus, truffle shavings. It is finished with local textures of green peas and crunchy Iberico.

Chef Carlos Villaflor, co-founder of Gallery by Chele, contributes to the menu a sous vide squid en su tinta with a Filipino twist. Aptly called Hybrid, it is slow-cooked adobong calamares with ginger, homemade vinegar, and onion-flavored squid ink. The squid has an interesting nata-like texture that’s gelatinous and chewy. As a visual guide to the dish, a black envelope containing art cards from the software-producing studio joyous food orgy (JY+CC) is handed out. At the back of the cards are recipes of adobong pusit and calamares en su tinta.

Next is the Salsa Verde, white snapper and local mussels in white wine, fish stock, sayote, and parsley-infused green sauce.

A rich mountain stew popular in Cantabria during the winter season, the Cocido de Montañes is deconstructed by Chele. In a postcard that comes along with the dish, he intimates that the Cocido de Montañes is “a dish that my Mom used to cook when I was a little boy, a true representation of my land.” The original version has cabbage, chorizo, chicken, pork, and blood sausages. Chele’s rendition wraps stew meats in kale over white bean soup. This is served along the Morcilla and the Chorizo Brioche. The latter is a mini-siopao that can (and should) be dipped in the incredibly comforting broth.

The menu not only presents Chele’s home, his colorful adventure toward becoming a successful chef, but also mirrors his half-Filipino, half-Spanish heart.

For palette cleanser, Macedonia is a European fruit salad with calamansi sorbet, fresh pulps of mangoes, strawberries, and pomelo.

The last of the meat dishes is the Txuleta, a tender steak served with beef jus, confit bell pepper, and potato done two ways. The potato skin on a bed of potato foam piques the interest with its contrasting lightness and crispiness.

The Spanish delicacy typical of the Valles Pasiegos, the Sobao is a butter sponge cake normally enjoyed with a hot cup of coffee or chocolate. Eaten usually for breakfast or after dinner for dessert, it comes with coulis made from forest berries, abundant in northern Spain. The burnt milk ice cream is an interpretation of the deep and rich dairy culture that Chele grew up with in his hometown, known for being a traditional and regional milk producer.

The second dessert is a Chele specialty, the Burnt Basque Cheesecake, only this time topped with Chantilly cream and grated truffles.

Ending Re-Encounters is “Memory,” three elaborations famous in the Philippines and Spain. There’s Sago con Leche, cassava cake a la petit four; Quesada, arroz con leche with cinnamon and sago; and Corete de Flan, leche flan-flavored ice cream sandwiched in crackers. These are served with a lamp that has Chele’s family portrait imprinted on it.

The menu not only presents Chele’s home, his colorful adventure toward becoming a successful chef, but also mirrors his half-Filipino, half-Spanish heart.

Available in 10 and six-courses, priced at ₱4,400 and ₱3,400 respectively, plus a 10 percent service charge. Diners may add ₱1,600 for cocktail pairing, ₱2,600 for wine pairing, ₱2,400 for a combination of cocktail and wine pairing, and ₱995 for non-alcoholic pairing all per person. The dining experience takes three to four hours to finish.

Gallery by Chele is on the fifth floor, Clip Center, 11th Ave. Corner 39th St. Bonifacio Global City, Taguig, Metro Manila | gallerybychele.com | +639175461673