Sugar is one of mankind's greatest creations. What started out as tall leafy stalks became tiny edible crystals that is present in all household ready to add a dose of sweetness to any dish or drink. Negros Occidental has been the prime producer of sugar in the Philippines for years that it has been baptized with the name Sugarlandia. Located in the Visayas region of the country, the province has vast fields of sugarcane. In between those green areas are mills that have been processing sugar since the earliest part of the 20th Century. 

Muscovado sugar creation at the Hawaiian-Philippine Company

Among sugar mills that continue to operate in Negros Occidental is the Hawaiian-Philippine Company (HPCo). Established in 1918, the Silay City-based company is one of the few producers of muscovado sugar left in the world, according to Negros Trade Fair.

Muscovado is unlike the refined sugar we have in our pantries. It is known to be a healthier alternative to refined sugar since it retains most vitamins found in sugarcane. Before regular sugar becomes a pure crystalline sucrose product, it goes through a process where, unfortunately, many of the good parts of the sugarcane plant are removed, such as potassium and phosphorous. The process of making muscovado sugar, however, is simpler. As a result, the sugar has more natural molasses, giving it a lush caramel color and toffee-like taste, and making it rich with antioxidants.

During a recent trip to the province, Manila Bulletin Lifestyle got a chance to witness how the company makes its muscovado in both modern and traditional ways. Leading our tour is Leonardo Garrido Jr., one of the sugar plantation’s managers. The first part of the process is acquiring juice from sugarcanes. Before it goes to the machine, the sugarcanes are analyzed in a lab to check the quality of their juice. Once they passed the inspection, they head to the mill.

Old-fashioned sugar mill operated by a farmer riding a carabao

To show us how it is done before, HPCo’s team set up the 1873 model Mirrlees Tait and Watson sugar mill, operated by a farmer riding a carabao. The carabao helps pull the rod that makes the gears of the machine work. Sugarcanes are fed to the machine, which crushes them and collects their juice. Thanks to new inventions, the company now uses a refurbished motorized mill bought from Antique, to help speed up their production. 

Hy-like 'pagas' are fed to the oven to heat up the 'kawas'

The collected juice then flows through a pipe where it will be strained for the boiling process. The juice is put in large stainless “kawas” (wok) and boiled from 130 to 135 degrees. According to Leonardo, 70 percent of the juice is water. In the boiling process, water evaporates and turns the juice into a thick syrup. Remember the part when the sugarcanes are crushed? The fibrous waste is dried and becomes “pagas,” which fuels the fire during the boiling process.

Here's what the syrup looks like after three hours of boiling

After three hours of boiling, the hot syrup is then poured onto a flat container where workers mix it to lower its temperature. This is the process where the magic happens. As the syrup cools down due to the mixing, it gradually turns into a powdery form. At this point, we now have muscovado sugar ready for packaging. 

All in all, from the crushing of the sugarcane to the syrup becoming muscovado sugar, the process takes around four to five hours. The factory produces almost 100 kilos of muscovado sugar from one truck full of sugarcane, which weighs around 10 tons. 

After a few minutes of mixing, the syrup becomes muscovado sugar

Cleanliness is also a top priority in the company. The muscovado sugar is mixed and produced in a controlled environment with skilled personnel wearing proper work attire as they lead the operations. 

“The Hawaiian-Philippine muscovado sugar is made in small batches from specially selected sugarcane in order to provide a consistent product made in hygienic conditions—unlike other muscovado producers,” the company says. “We are proud to say that we have a deep understanding of sugar manufacture and enough of a sense of history to preserve this healthful and original sugar product.”

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