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Manila Bulletin devider Lifestyle devider Food devider When in Cebu and feeling French

When in Cebu and feeling French

Published Aug 18, 2022 02:39 pm

Café Des Amis, my friend Chef Philippe from Brittany, and my all-time favorite kouign-amann

Kouign-amann and pain au chocolat

A few weeks ago, I flew to Cebu to experience my first “pamanhikan.” All went well. I was excited for the new life that awaited my son Franco.

I had just flown in from Japan and had a full schedule so I had to map out my plans as soon as I got to Cebu. I landed at noon, checked in at the hotel, and off I went to what used to be the old Tymad Bistro The owner, Chef Philippe Estienne, is from Brittany, France where they make the most outstanding crepes or galette and pastries. Every time I’m in Cebu, I cannot not go visit Philippe.

It all started a few years back. We were in Cebu for the Visayas culinary competition Market Basket of Chef Myrna Segismundo. I arrived at the venue and one of the organizers, Corrine Joseph, was handing me a croissant for a snack. I initially declined not wanting to grab her breakfast. In the end, I gave in and when I took my first bite, I knew I had found something very interesting. I immediately called all the judges and was able to convince everyone to have lunch at my new discovery. Off we all went. Everyone was raving about it. Each dish was fantastic. 

Caesar salad and ham and cheese croissant

Tymad Bistro then was owned by Chef Philippe. He has an all-French menu but is known for his pastries. He has the most outstanding croissants, pain au chocolat, kouign-amann, French cinnamon rolls, and many others. We ordered practically everything on his menu. He makes a delicious country pâté, pâté foie gras, and tarragon chicken. The day we all left, we emptied his bakery of all that he was selling. My all-time favorite is his kouign-amann.

This last time, as soon as I dropped my tiny maleta, I took a Grab to his new place called Café Des Amis. I was dreaming about his food and I knew I was for sure going to order too much. At the moment, he does not have his crepes and galette but promises he will have them soon. 

Fougasse are the pizza like baguettes; Salmon Eggs Benedict

I ordered a Caesar’s salad, a ham and cheese croissant sandwich, and a classic jambon beurre, the hamburger of the Parisans. Of course I couldn’t finish everything. I loved his Caesar’s salad loaded with bacon, chicken, and a delicious dressing. His ham and cheese croissant as expected was also a winner. I promised Philippe I’d be back the next day for breakfast. He promised me a French version of their pizza made with his crusty baguette topped with cheese, olives, and other unusual ingredients. I believe they are called fougasse, a dense, highly flavored bread typically associated with Provence. Delicious! I also took home pan chocolat for my kids. His kouign-amann are the best I have tried anywhere. And I try a lot of this delicious but unknown French pastry. Chef Philippe has a version that is topped with swirls of chocolate. That morning I had salmon eggs benedict topped with a fantastic Hollandaise sauce. With very limited tummy space, I plan to go back for the Café Des Amis tarragon chicken with a fantastic cream sauce. Chef Philippe makes everything from scratch. 

My son’s wedding is on the first week of September and my sights are all set on Café Des Amis. This place is a gem in Cebu. 

Cafe des Amis is at Plaza Nouvelle 2 E Benedicto Street. (032) 256 4597

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