Banking on the ‘old reliables’


As the holiday season descends upon us, and while it’s enlightening to take note of the new eating establishments that have come to stake their claim on our culinary landscape, there’s also the pleasure of going back to the “old reliables,” and seeing what new tricks they may have up their sleeves. A constant favorite over the 16 years it’s now been in existence is Chef Jessie Rockwell Club. Chef Jessie Sincioco is one of the “alumni” of Le Soufflé, and her restaurant at the Rockwell Club has been a perennial go-to of both my three sons, and of Issa Litton.

Nestled right across the street from the Rockwell Power Plant, my boys love her soufflés, and the Continental fare that her eatery is known for. So when Issa and I headed there last Saturday night, it was to indulge in a mix of old favorites, to discover new dishes, and shoot the breeze with Chef Jessie, who is as much a friend, as she is a chef whose dishes we seek out on a regular basis.

Chef Jessie's Smoked Milkfish Pie

Upon our arrival, we were told that Chef Jessie had prepared an appetizer for us that was off-menu. When it arrived, it was a visual feast! As Chef Jessie explained, if there’s the popularity of Salmon and Caviar Pies, why couldn’t we Filipinos come up with our own version? And what we had in front of us was her Smoked Milkfish Pie. It was our bangus, smoked tinapa-style, and turned into a really delicious pie. Look at the photo to see how pretty it is, and know that it tasted just as good.

The Seared Scallops, Mushroom Salad

For old favorites, we opted for the French Onion Soup, the Seared Scallops, Mushroom, and Pate Salad, and of course, the Ribeye Steak with Asparagus, Broccoli, and Potatoes, with Mushroom Sauce.

The very special Chicken Adobo with Foie Gras

It was my entree, that was another off-menu creation of Chef Jessie, one she had thought up on her way to the restaurant. This was her Chicken Adobo with Foie Gras. Expertly sliced Chicken Adobo slices with Kesong Puti, were smothered in both the Chicken Adobo and Goose Liver sauces, and an inviting 30g Foie Gras was placed atop the chicken slices. The rice that accompanied the dish was ringed by atchara.

What I instantly liked about the dish was how the sauces worked together to create something unique, while still being reminiscent of what they were individually. In other words, it was traditional Chicken Adobo, and yet it wasn’t. The Goose Liver sauce gave it a strong flavor of Tournedos Rossini added on, and it worked beautifully; while the atchara would bring you back home to the adobo foundation.

As Chef Jessie was quick to assure us, anyone reading this can request for these off-menu dishes, subject to availability. She’s more than happy to introduce these Filipino-influenced dishes in time; but for now, they’ll have to be done on request. Me, I can assure you that these two creations are worth asking for.

The Mango Souffle

To cap the night, we ordered a demitasse of Chef Jessie’s Mango Soufflé. This was our indulgent version of a palate cleanser; and trust me, it was so good to have this once again.

Chef Jessie, Issa Litton, and the author

Over the pandemic, Chef Jessie Rockwell would open and close depending on the prevailing safety protocols. They’ve been open now for a little over a month; and while her commissary on JP Rizal has continued the food delivery and catering aspects of her business, Chef Jessie is so happy to have this Rockwell Club restaurant open again. She didn’t let go of any of her staff during the COVID situation, so it’s such a boon to reopen the doors and have them all back in a working situation, even if subject to the limited seating table placements.

Always worth the visit, Chef Jessie Rockwell Club is one of those restaurants one never tires of heading to.