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Nearer, and so rewarding, 'Mrs. Saldo's' at the Karrivin Studio

Published Dec 12, 2024 09:20 am

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Mrs. Saldo’s in Silang, Cavite, has always been one of those enjoyable culinary pilgrimages perfect for a weekend escape. Just off the Tagaytay route, Chef Rhea Rizzo and her husband, Dave, welcome guests to a bucolic retreat offering top-quality tasting menus and peaceful gambols across the expansive property.

When Chef Rhea had her Balmori, Rockwell stint this time last year, I was thrilled to write about it and encourage others to experience her cuisine. Now, she has an ongoing pop-up at the Oppein Showroom on the third floor of Karrivin Studio on Chino Roces. Running only until January 11, it’s a must-visit for those seeking a family-sharing style of dining. Reservations are essential to enjoy this limited-time concept.

When Elena Coyiuto invited the HWAO Foundation board members to a Christmas lunch at Mrs. Saldo’s, it was the perfect opportunity to reacquaint myself with Chef Rhea’s bold and flavorful cooking.

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Pomelo Salad and Pork BBQ

This sharing system is an excellent way to sample multiple dishes without being confined to a single appetizer or main course. During our festive lunch, we ordered the Pork Iberico BBQ and paired it with the Pomelo Salad. The BBQ featured tender morsels enhanced by the zest of Nahm Jim sauce, while the Pomelo Salad’s fried shallots and calamansi vinaigrette added a bright, refreshing note.

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Tonnato Salad


 

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Crab Dip with Sourdough

The Tonnato Salad comes highly recommended. With grilled Romaine and pistachios, it’s a refreshing take on what a salad can be. Another standout was the Crab Dip with sourdough—deceptively simple yet absolutely satisfying.

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Dutch Pancake Burrata

For a heartier appetizer, the Dutch Pancake Burrata with Jamon and tomato jam is a must-try. It’s like a tart you can cut, spread with Burrata, and top with a bit of Jamon—a heavenly bite every time.

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Barramundi

For the mains, seafood lovers should try the Pan-Fried Barramundi. With crunchy sourdough bits, capers, parsley, and lemon, it’s Chef Rhea’s upsized homage to Sole Meunière. It was an instant favorite.

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Apple Soy Flank Steak
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Salmon Aburi

There’s also the Apple-Soy Flank Steak, featuring anchovy purée, green apples, parsley oil, and a teriyaki demi-glace. It’s a leaner cut of steak that was both unexpected and delightful. The Salmon Aburi is another standout—a complete meal with sushi rice, edamame, ikura, a sous vide egg, and teriyaki sauce.

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Sweet Potato Mochi

Make sure to save room for dessert. The Sweet Potato Mochi with matcha ganache and kinako is an undeniable winner.

Chef Rhea’s stint at the fabled Gaggan in Bangkok is evident in the Thai influences subtly woven into her dishes. What truly shines at the Karrivin pop-up, however, is the flexibility of the menu, allowing diners to sample a variety of dishes without the constraints of a rigid tasting menu. Here’s hoping that beyond January 11, Chef Rhea considers a permanent Metro Manila address to complement her Silang retreat.

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