By Liza Ilarde
@ilardeliza on Instagram
These days there has been a lot of attention on the textiles, weaves, and embroideries done by indigenous peoples from all over the Philippines. Enterprising designers have taken liberties with these materials, which have been around for centuries, and turned them into contemporary pieces that can easily be styled with everyday basics like jeans and T-shirts.
This modern way of wearing “Filipiniana” has certainly opened the minds of millennials and has started a conversation of preserving what is inherently Filipino yet bringing it to the 21st century in order to keep it relevant. And while the terno has taken the spotlight as the country’s national costume for formal attire, there is a movement to bring back the baro’t saya. Yes, to Balik Saya.
The Balik Saya project is the brainchild of Manila’s 5th District Representative Cristal Bagatsing, who says she was merely brainstorming on ways to promote Intramuros, which is under her district. “I was talking to Atty. Guiller Asido of the Intramuros Administration last year and our conversation evolved to heritage and culture. We talked about holding a Maria Clara exhibit during International Women’s Month, which was last March, but we thought, why not do it for Manila Heritage Month, which is in May,” revealed Bagatsing. The Department of Tourism also joins them in this endeavor.
Balik Saya is headlined by a fashion design competition, which encourages budding designers to create a contemporary baro't saya using local fabrics and indigenous weaves. Initially, contestants were supposed to be students from the colleges and universities in the 5th District, such as the University of the Philippines, St. Scholastica’s College, De La Salle University, De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde, and Adamson University, just to name a few. “But there were a lot of inquiries from seamstresses and even out-of-school youth, who were interested in joining,” said Bagatsing. So they were given a chance to participate and this will eventually help them get jobs, earn a livelihood, and keep them off the streets.
Maria Clara is actually a nickname given to the three-piece ensemble known as the baro’t saya, which is comprised of a bell-sleeved cropped blouse, a long full skirt, and a pañuelo worn around the shoulders. This is something that the finalists learned during a workshop with production/theater designer Gino Gonzales. They will also go through a mentorship program with esteemed designer Jojie Lloren. “We received around 40 entries and we cut them down to 18 finalists,” said Lloren. “I’ve seen the sketches and I will help them improve on their designs. While some were too literal and exact copies, others were too busy or too out there, so I have to tame them.”
The finals night and awarding will happen on May 28 at the National Museum. There will be five winners, who will each receive a cash prize, plus an apprenticeship with designer Ricardo Preto of Rustan’s and a workshop at SoFA Design Institute. Meanwhile, from May 17 to 26, there will be an exhibit at Destileria Limtuaco Museum on the history of the baro’t saya and Philippine clothing and textile by Patis Tesoro.