Arita Wagyu brings a refined taste of Japan to Manila
A seven-course dinner at Hotel Okura showcased the balanced flavor and delicate marbling of beef from Arita Farm in Miyazaki Prefecture
(Photo: Hotel Okura Manila)
By Norma O. Chikiamco
The meat had travelled a long way. It had come from a farm tucked in the southeastern coast of Kyushu in Miyazaki Prefecture, about 1,490 miles from Manila. A farm of green pastures and warm climate. A farm surrounded by wholesome fresh air. A farm in misty, exotic faraway Japan. Arita Farm.
Despite the lengthy distance, the meat landed in the Philippines in time for the celebration of 70 years of friendship between two countries.
Arita Farm prides itself in raising calves with exceptional care. The cattle roam around freely amid the open air for 14 months, are fed a carefully formulated diet of grains and grasses, and drink only mineral water derived from 100 meters underground. It’s an indulgent pampering that results in beef with a harmonious balance of flavor and texture.
As such, it’s in direct contrast to that accorded to other cattle in Japan, which live mostly in enclosed indoor spaces. Hence the resulting difference between Arita beef and other Wagyu brands.
(Photo: Hotel Okura Manila)
“We do not chase the highest A5 marbling grade,” says Arita’s official brochure. “Instead, our goal is a natural balance of lean and marbling.” Rather than being overwhelming, Arita Wagyu has a refined flavor that insinuates itself ever so subtly on the taste buds. In the Wagyu category of the World Steak Challenge, Arita was awarded a gold medal
At Hotel Okura’s Yawaragi restaurant one fine evening, grand chef Tadashi Sawauchi of Okura Hotels and Resorts, Yamazato Japanese executive chef Keiichiro Fujino, chefs Katsuji Kato, Ikuma Sato, Jumpei Yamanashi, and pastry chef Vi Serrano, prepared a seven-course dinner highlighting the exceptional quality of Arita Wagyu. The first of a three-night collaboration between Hotel Okura and Arita Farm, the evening also marked 70 years of Japanese-Philippine Friendship. Japanese Ambassador to the Philippines Endo Kazuya and Madame Endo Akiko were joined by other guests including James Arita, CEO of Nikujille and Toshiko Arita, vice president, who represented the family behind the award-winning Wagyu beef.
The seven-course dinner was a progressive taste of the different cuts of Arita Wagyu, harmonized with summer vegetables, steaming hot soup, and sashimi. Zensai, the first course, introduced us to three kinds of beef cuts: deep fried beef sirloin immersed in a silky onion milk soup, dried beef knuckle resting atop boiled shrimp enhanced by a creamy tofu sauce, and braised beef brisket embellished with a tangy vinegar mustard miso sauce.
(Photo: Hotel Okura Manila)
The beef sirloin made another appearance in Otsukuri, the second course. This time it was nestled on a stalk of leek and was served with an egg yolk the color of sunshine. Beside it was a slice of beef knuckle cooked rare, almost like sashimi, and served with wasabi soy sauce. Chef Sawauchi assured us that Arita beef prepared rare, much like fish sashimi, was safe to eat. But we were so fascinated by its fine texture and earthy flavor that we hardly needed an assurance. Completing the platter were toro, the choicest part of the tuna, and red sea bream cured in kombu, a seaweed harvested in the cold waters of Japan.
We got another taste of sirloin in the third course, where a folded slab of cold beef sirloin lay over a mound of shredded vegetables. It was the perfect example of what Arita describes as the delicate marbling of its beef. Meltingly tender, its rich flavor revealed itself in small increments, like a mystery unfolding ever so gently.
On the other hand, the braised beef brisket served in the fourth course had a bolder, more emphatic flavor. No nonsense and assertive, it was like the strong man in the group, demanding one’s undivided attention. Savoring every bite, we were only too happy to oblige.
Higher premium cuts of beef followed in the next two courses: a top blade steak cooked an appetizing medium rare and served with leek and teriyaki sauce. Then the finale: succulent cubes of tenderloin arranged on a bed of rice and diced cucumbers. Globules of fish roe were scattered on the side, while peeping beneath the rice grains was the ruffled cap of maitake, a mushroom sometimes called the hen of the woods for its rich woodsy flavor.
(Photo: Hotel Okura Manila)
Such a bountiful feast called for an equally sumptuous dessert, and the culinary team didn’t disappoint. Arranged on a pristine white platter were fresh muscat grapes that glistened like fine jewels. Smooth, velvety vanilla panna cotta, Greek yogurt ice cream, green apple jelly and a sable of muscovado sugar completed the meal ender.
Yet perhaps it was only the beginning. Expect Arita beef to be locally available in restaurants, and perhaps in the retail market soon. Its farm may be a long distance away, but its flavor will capture your taste buds and linger in your memory for a long, long time.
Yawaragi Restaurant is at Hotel Okura, Newport World Resorts,Newport City, Pasay City. For reservations call +63 2 53182888.