For over a decade now, Aussie chef Wade Watson has been one of my true “dependables” when it comes to quality steakhouses in the metropolis. His Bondi & Bourke opened in 2015 in Legazpi Village, and my three sons and I were weekend regulars. So when I mentioned Chef Wade and his new fine-dining venture with partner Derek Ramsay, Brontë, my youngest Luca jumped at the chance to be my wingman. In fact, when I arrived at the Levanto Building on Jupiter Street, Luca was already there, eager to reconnect with Chef Wade and try out this restaurant that’s been named after another popular Sydney beach.

Chef Wade joined us at our table to explain how Brontë was all about keeping it simple and letting the food do all the “talking.” Aussie beef sourced from New South Wales would be among the highlights of the Brontë menu, but wouldn’t be limited to that, as Wade was enthusiastic about the off-menu picanha that had come from the fabled Miyazaki Prefecture in Japan. And as Luca loves that cut, we were hooked, putty in the hands of this grill master.

A salmon mousse was the amuse-bouche to open up our palate. Light and airy, the flaky base offered a crisp texture to offset the mousse. Luca was beaming, excited for how the evening would develop.

The foie gras terrine, with a plum compote, pomegranate and slices of sourdough on the side, was our first starter. It was like a slab of buttery heaven, the fruit elements teasing us with the richness of the smooth terrine. It was such a generous slab, I was warning Luca to pace himself.

Up next, we had the Japanese scallops, butter-seared, with chimichurri sauce and tarragon butter. Broccolini had been added to the dish, and we both loved how the chimichurri gave a fresh dimension to the scallops. I would recommend this starter to anyone who visits Brontë.

The salmon crudo is Tasmanian salmon, with radish, rainbow tomato, blood orange and dill mousse. The blood orange was a great addition to the crudo, adding to the citrusy notes of the dish. And visually, it made all the difference in making the Brontë version stand on its own.

The Australian wedge salad is avocado, honey bacon, egg, Brie, heirloom tomatoes and house-made ranch. And what a house-made ranch! This was fresh, crisp, a little bit indulgent with the bacon and Brie, but we weren’t complaining. And it’s a salad that’s uniquely Brontë.

I’m partial to sole meunière whenever I find myself in a French brasserie or bistro, so I spied Wade’s barramundi meunière on the menu. It serves two wonderfully, as one of the mains that can be shared, and it’s served with vine tomatoes, asparagus, capers, dill and French cultured butter. On the night we were at Brontë, broccoli was thrown in. Impeccably deboned and flaky in the right way, while still being firm, I would return for this dish.

I had mentioned the picanha sourced from Japan’s Miyazaki Prefecture, and it was served simply, with broccolini and a peppercorn/cognac sauce. To say it was tender and wonderful would be a gross understatement. It was the potent reminder of why my sons and I are such Wade believers. Wade was explaining to Luca how he had trimmed the picanha cut and the low-fire cooking process; me, I was just reaching for my next slice.

For dessert, we tried two options. The sticky toffee pudding is a warm date sponge, with butterscotch, vanilla ice cream and white chocolate. And there was the crème brûlée flan, which is described as “French custard meets Filipino flan,” with burnt sugar, honeycomb and espresso ice cream. The flan was the winner in my estimation, while Luca enjoyed the sticky toffee. I noted in the dessert list that Brontë offers baked Alaska, prepared and flambéed tableside. I loved how Chef Wade was reviving such an old-school dessert.

For Luca and me, we appreciated how Brontë was fresh, new and exciting, while also appreciative of heritage and the classics. It’s a subtle mix, and it works beautifully. My salute to Wade and to Derek for creating this bastion of à la carte quality, simplicity and great flavors.