Whenever the word “cerulean” comes into a conversation, what often comes to my mind at first is that iconic monologue from the movie “The Devil Wears Prada.” But after dining at chef Francis Tolentino’s newest restaurant, Cerulean, at The Shops at Ayala Triangle Gardens in Makati City, that term comes with a whole new meaning—and taste.

On July 15, the Michelin-selected chef officially welcomed everyone to his newest food spot. Cerulean, for chef Francis, is an ode to the waters that surround the country and their gifts. And as the theme suggests, what goes on the plate highlights the best of local seafood, from starters and soups to mains and desserts (more on this later).

Although the prime ingredients are sourced locally, the way they are prepared and cooked is through an Asian lens. While the prime ingredients are sourced from across the Philippines, they are prepared through an Asian culinary lens, blending familiar regional techniques with contemporary flavors.

“We want to showcase the beauty of Philippine seafood, from north to south,” chef Francis tells Manila Bulletin Lifestyle. “We work with small communities of farmers and fishermen. We work with Ramon Uy Jr. of Slow Food Community of Negros. The good thing about him is that he is really passionate about helping farmers and bringing their produce to Manila.”

This approach allows the restaurant to celebrate the richness of Philippine seafood while presenting it in ways that feel refined, inventive, and deeply rooted in the diverse food traditions of Asia. It keeps the experience exciting.

First to grace our table is a bowl of Scallop Dumplings, which, in some ways, reminds me of the comforting molo soup. Pieces of scallop mousse wrapped in pasta dumpling wrappers and grilled scallops from Iloilo swim in a broth made of pork knuckle. While it is drizzled with chili garlic oil, the dish retains its delicate flavor, allowing the scallops to shine.

Next was the Jelly Laksa, which is the total opposite of our first bowl. It has everything you want in a laksa. Its shrimp bisque broth is creamy and tangy, with the right amount of spiciness to keep you slurping up the soup. But what takes it to a different level are the jellyfish noodles, which have a slightly chewy texture while remaining light and refreshing.

The main course put the spotlight on fish. First is the Chargrilled Pompano, featuring dry-aged pompano atop green curry coconut sauce with fermented pineapple vinegar on the side. The other was the Tomato Nam Prik Bisugo, a plate of chargrilled threadfin bream, tomato nam prik, and green mango salsa. Both dishes demonstrate how a restrained approach to seafood, when executed with precision, can be deeply satisfying.

Something perfect for sharing is the Chipirones Claypot Rice. It is a meal that stands out on its own. Grilled baby squid is cooked with the rice, giving every grain a deep, inky hue. Layers of flavor and texture come from the fermented daikon and garlic chips, while the Asian salsa verde, calamansi aioli, and tuna tataki lend the dish a bright, herbaceous freshness.

When it comes to his seafood-first approach, nothing in Cerulean’s menu is spared from it, even the dessert. While seafood and confectionery are not a natural pairing, it is perhaps one of the sections in the menu that will excite people and leave them satisfied. We sampled three of their dessert offerings. The Uni Ice Cream Sandwich packs a lot of texture, with the ice cream serving as the perfect base for gamet biscuit and toasted sesame, while the fermented kamias caramel adds a touch of sweetness. The Smoke Chocolate Tart is as decadent as a chocolate-based dessert can be. What mellows down its richness are the smoked fish crumbs and the pandan ice cream on the side. Lastly, the Crab Mango Sticky R-ice Cream is a combination of Asian desserts all in one plate. It has mochi, mango sorbet, toasted glutinous rice cream, pandan and coconut streusel, and burnt molasses, with a blue crab ice cream that gives it a Cerulean touch.

Apart from the food, what makes Cerulean striking is its atmosphere. Interior designer Noel Bernardo of EC Studio envisioned the interiors as a calm and sculptural interpretation of the ocean. Entering the restaurant is like taking a dive into the sea. The sandy tones of the walls allow the sea creature-inspired light fixtures to pop even more. Paua shells make the tables glisten under the light, while the furniture, curated by renowned designer Vito Selma, has an organic sense with its soft curves and warm tones. The restaurant also features an open kitchen, allowing diners to witness the culinary team in action.

As we begin to experience the rainy season, Cerulean offers an instant by-the-beach escape, at least through its flavors. Beyond its thoughtfully designed interiors and seafood-centric menu, however, what the restaurant reminded this author of is how fortunate the Philippines is to be surrounded by bodies of water teeming with life. At a time when the country’s maritime rights continue to be challenged, let chef Francis’ dishes serve as a reminder of the abundance of our seas and the people who depend on them.