When taking a trip to Taiwan, no visit is complete without a visit to the massive Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. Taipei is a wonderful city to navigate, as it’s filled with iconic towers, such as Taipei 101, bustling night markets to shop until you drop, and, most of all, expansive walkways and parks. One of its most iconic parks is the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Park. It’s somewhat similar to our Quezon Memorial Circle, though in terms of scale, we’d have to waive the point over to Taiwan.

Upon entry, the first thing you’ll notice is the abundance of towering trees in the area. Residents, both old and young, get to enjoy the shade of these tall trees as they go about their day. There are a few areas where you can exercise and join in on some tai chi. For tourists arriving in the area, however, the main draw is the Memorial Hall.

As a quick history refresher, Chiang Kai-shek is the former President of the Republic of China (not to be confused with the People’s Republic of China). After a failed battle against communists in the mainland, Chiang Kai-shek brought his forces over to Taiwan to establish his own government. Using his newfound power, he declared Martial Law to take control over Taiwan. His regime lasted from 1928 until he died in 1975. Today, his legacy leaves a mixed impression on Taiwanese citizens, a sentiment felt when walking through the Memorial Hall’s museum.

Within the halls, there are two exhibits tourists can visit. One side focuses on the cultural arts, whereas the other focuses on the life of Chiang Kai-shek. Going through the museum about his life, we are given two perspectives. One is the establishment of a new era for Taiwan that promises change through establishing new infrastructure and cultural ideals, while the other shows us how this same pathway led to the rise and fall of an authoritarian regime.

A whole section is dedicated to showcasing banned books, magazines, and artworks during Taiwan’s Martial Law era, which leaves a strong reminder about how censorship is a powerful tool used by those in charge.

Keen eyes might recognize a familiar local figure shown in one of the displayed photographs. It’s none other than former President Elpidio Quirino having a discussion with Chiang Kai-shek in Baguio City regarding forming an alliance among Far Eastern countries against communism.

If you time your visit right, you’ll be able to witness the changing of the guard routine held in front of the memorial. Watching the guards’ calculated movements is almost hypnotic. You’ll be standing in awe over how precise each step is. Find a good spot once you notice the guards marching toward the spot, since it draws quite a crowd.