Chef Tatung Sarthou has made a name for himself with his “Simpol” advocacy. That is, by making Filipino food in the simplest manner so that everyone can enjoy it. As a vocal advocate for food accessibility, it comes as no surprise that his latest venture, Tatung's, finds itself a home in one of Metro Manila's most accessible areas, Cubao.

Nestled within Araneta City’s Gateway 2, Tatung's stands out for its homely atmosphere. Upon entry, you’ll find it's designed similarly to a Filipino household with its rattan chairs, wardrobe displays, and wooden window panes. Its design is intentional, given how much of the menu takes inspiration from the recipes passed down to him by his grandmothers. Our visit was during the lunch rush. Tables were filled with different families and friends, making it feel like there was one giant family reunion; however, everyone outside our table was total strangers to each other.

If you time your visit just right, you might be lucky enough to encounter Chef Tatung himself watching over things. Much like his online personality, he is a jovial type and a gracious host. He is always keen on making sure everyone is having a good time and explains every dish presented in such a heartfelt manner.

For starters, we were served four different dishes that almost felt like full meals in their own right. Three seafood-focused dishes were part of the mix: the Tuna Kinilaw, which had tuna cured in sukang tuba and biasong; Okoy, fried shrimp fritters served like biscuits and with a side of fresh tomato and cucumber salsa; and Gambas sa Latik, consisting of shrimp with garlic, chili, and toasted coconut curds served with bread. Then, the Lengua Adobo, a chewy delight consisting of slow-braised ox tongue in adobo glaze, olives, and served with bread.

Chef Tatung's meals are served with families in mind. Hence, the generous servings for each dish. By the time we got to our mains, we started to struggle with going through each dish, but we also didn't want to miss a single bite. For the mains, we were presented with Bibingkang Talong, a reimagining of tortang talong as a casserole, served with layers of ground pork, tomato, and salted egg; Pancit Palabok, which had noodles mixed in a seafood sauce with smoked fish, egg, and chicharon; Calderetang Baka with Queso de Bola, a slow-braised beef dish in tomato sauce and topped with aged cheese; and Lola's Pompano sa Gata, a whole pompano fish braised in coconut milk alongside tomatoes, ginger, onions, and shrimp. Bibingkang Talong was an unexpected winner among the dishes, having felt like eating a cheese-filled lasagna fresh from the oven. While speaking with Chef Tatung over lunch, we noticed he was enjoying a serving of Pork Sisig with garlic rice, and upon trying a spoonful, it's certainly a must-have. Try pairing it with any of the restaurant’s signature cocktails, or cool things down with the Calamansi Honey drink.

Just when you think it's all done, there's always room for more when it comes to dessert. We were served the New York Cubao Cheesecake and Halaya Cake. Both are best paired with your choice of hot chocolate, Tsokolate Eh if you prefer purely chocolate or Tsokolate Ah if you fancy it mixed with milk. If you prefer it on the go, you can opt for any of the sweets sold over at Tindeli’s portion of the restaurant.