Across the runways, fashion houses explore a shifting idea of masculinity—one that moves between restraint and expression, clarity and emotion. These recent shows unfold menswear as a study in contrast. The result is a season that doesn’t settle on a single direction, but instead reflects a more fluid, imaginative approach to how men’s style is defined and lived.

For Prada’s spring-summer 2027 collection, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons unveiled “Clarity,” a collection that strips down menswear rather than turning it into a spectacle. The goal is to “resist time” with clothes that “defy easy classification of function or era.” The runway put the spotlight on cropped jackets, narrow tailoring, and slim trousers, which many believe signal the return of the skinny fit.

Simone Rocha’s first menswear runway show couldn’t be more Simone Rocha. For spring-summer 2027, she introduced the idea of “tender masculinity” by mixing delicate elements with traditional menswear pieces. Think ruched windbreakers, lace tops worn with blazers, ballet flats with suits, and relaxed cardigans paired with loosely tied neckwear.

Dolce & Gabbana envision a Mediterranean escape for their spring-summer 2027 collection. Dubbed “Vacanze Siciliane” (Sicilian Holidays), the collection puts the spotlight on bold postcard-inspired prints, handwritten messages, and local citrus motifs—all heavily decorative but still sensual.

Luxury Americana and film inspiration shaped Ralph Lauren’s spring-summer 2027 collection. Titled “Dream Racers,” the collection reimagines the gentleman athlete through a travel-film lens. Preppy Ivy League style, old-money sport culture, and racing and nautical themes all blend into the house’s cinematic summer world.

It was his memory of his grandfather wearing a suit at the beach that served as the North Star for Paul Smith’s latest menswear collection. For him, suits can be worn anywhere. The runway featured tailored suits, shorts, knit tops, and trousers among other looks. But what stood out most were the accessories, like grape beaded charms, a twisted spoon pin, and a pearlescent slider necklace.

Thom Browne’s spring-summer 2027 menswear collection couldn’t go unnoticed. For the upcoming season, the fashion house goes all out with patterns: seersucker, plaid, florals, and its iconic stripes. Taking it to another level are narrow, elongated proportions and takes on pleated skirts for men as part of formal suiting systems.