(Photo: Philip Cu Unjieng)
The Flame at Discovery Primea has an ongoing Tasting Menu that evokes sweet childhood memories, and could be the perfect dining destination this month of June, as we celebrate several momentous occasions, including, but not limited to, Independence Day and Father’s Day. As taste is one of our primary senses, Chef Luis Chikiamco had polled several personages connected to Discovery Primea, including GM David Pardo de Ayala, himself a chef turned hotelier, and they’ve come up with dishes that run the gamut of salty, sour, bitter, sweet, and umami, all triggering a strong sense of comfort and recollection.
Chef Luis Chikiamco (Photo: Discovery Primea)
Then operating on the principle that it wouldn’t be about just replicating those dishes from the memory banks of the individuals who contributed these great food ideas, Chef Luis found ways to have those dishes retain their original charm while transitioning to something more enhanced and elevated. As most of the dishes work wonderfully, I was consistently brought back to an old flavor or taste profile, but appreciated how they were given a twist and/or nuance that made them uniquely Flame.
Do indulge in this Tasting Menu! It’s priced attractively, and I assure you that this isn’t one of those Tasting Menus where you head home still yearning for a midnight snack. If ever, this was more a case of wishing they came in smaller portions so you wouldn’t be so full before the last couple of courses arrived. The portions are generous, as the trio of snacks, followed by the six courses, all conspire to ensure you head home a happy and satisfied diner.
Trio of Snacks (Photo: Philip Cu Unjieng)
The first plate brought to the table, a trio of snacks, is a portent of how playful and inspired Chef Luis was in assembling this Tasting Menu. The trio consists first of a speared Spanish Bikini, which is Jamon Serrano, Manchego, Roasted Bell Pepper, and Butter. Then, the Shrimp Ceviche with Orange, Bell Peppers, and a Cocktail Sauce that GM David recalls from his native Colombia. The sauce was itself worth the price of admission. Third in the trio is a Braised Beef Vol au Vent; roasted Bone Marrow, Carrots, Celery, and Red Wine Sauce. This was a play on textures thanks to the pastry shell.
Pan Seared Foie Gras (Photo: Philip Cu Unjieng)
You say Pan Seared Foie Gras, and what will not come to mind is to have the foie resting on a crispy waffle, joined by Duck Confit, Poached Pear, Crispy Duck Skin, Baby Greens, and a Butterscotch sauce. It was the butterscotch that really packed the surprise, turning this into a whimsical play on both breakfast and on blending savory and sweet. Here was the dish that had me reaching for superlatives, as it was both nostalgic and yet so novel!
Crab and Corn (Photo: Discovery Primea)
The Crab & Corn was the soup course; a Crab Gyoza, Corn Velouté, a Soft Egg, and Charred Corn Kernels. It was the Velouté that had me internally clapping, as mixed with the kernels and the gyoza, this was like a meal unto itself. Filling, and so good!
Longganisa Lucban ‘Taco’ (Photo: Philip Cu Unjieng)
A Longganisa Lucban ‘Taco’ is what followed, a tribute to picadillo dishes. With Red Onions, Cherry Tomatoes, Salted Egg, and a dash of Cilantro Aioli, this was like your favorite merienda coming to life and being served for dinner.
Encocado de Pescado (Photo: Philip Cu Unjieng)
Encocado de Pescado was the seafood course, Pan Seared Black Bass, with Clams, Yucca Chips, Arroz Con Titote, and a Pacific Coconut Bisque as the sauce. The Arroz elevated this to comfort food of a distinctly high caliber. I would order the rice alone to mix it with other dishes!
(Photo: Philip Cu Unjieng)
Josper Grilled Wagyu Beef was the meat course that would slowly wind down our night of hearty dining. Along with the beef, Chef Luis had Potato ‘Noodles,’ Assorted Mushrooms, Celeriac, and a rich Port Wine-Mustard sauce. Deep in smoky flavors, this was for the avowed carnivores in the family.
Chocolate Marquise (Photo: Philip Cu Unjieng)
A Chocolate Marquise, of Hazelnut Praline, Oreo Crumbs, and Marshmallows, was the deconstructed best of the best of your childhood desserts, all put together in one dish. It was a fitting sweet ending to all that had come before.
As one can glean, a lot of thought has been placed in creating these dishes. Chef Luis anticipated that while harking to personal memories, he would have to reimagine these dishes to transcend and become something channeled via his kitchen wizardry and culinary imagination. For each of us, some of the courses will inevitably work better than the others, but all of us will recognize a number of these dishes, and a smile will be plastered on our faces as we indulge. I know I was grinning from ear to ear, time and time again.