Samba is the vibrant Peruvian restaurant on the 8th floor of Shangri-La The Fort, BGC. Later this year, it will be marking its 10th anniversary, and those with a discriminating palate have long enjoyed how it subtly celebrates Peruvian cuisine, a fusion of Japanese, Spanish, and indigenous South American cooking techniques, in a setting that’s bright and invigorating. There’s a resort-styled ambiance, as it’s located by the hotel’s pool, and has a well-ventilated al fresco section.
Chefs Arturo and Joris
During the special media lunch arranged at these outdoor tables, Shangri-La The Fort’s Executive Chef Joris Rycken was on hand to reintroduce us to Samba’s Chef Arturo Melendez. Chef Arturo is coming close to his first year at the helm of Samba, and it was nice to see how he’s stamping his name on the menu with a bevy of wonderful new dishes.
Asked if there was any one dish he’s especially proud of, with a twinkle in his eye, Chef Arturo was quick to dismiss any notion that his was a “one-note samba.” He said that he’s extremely proud of all his dishes and there’s no one favorite. That would be more on us, as the ones dining and sampling his brand of cooking, to say which ones would be our favorites. Well said.
If we’re talking Peruvian cuisine, it stands to figure that ceviche, tiradito, causa, and their street food anticucho will be part of the offerings, and we weren’t disappointed.
Ceviche Mi Mamá Dice
The Ceviche Mi Mamá Dice is grouper, rocoto leche de tigre, coriander, sweet potato mash, cancha, and corn cake. The corn cake was the truly imaginative addition to this dish, blending well with the ceviche in its citrus “broth.”
Causa Con Langostinos Al Ajo
Causa Con Langostinos Al Ajo is Chef Arturo’s response to the traditional Spanish Gambas al Ajillo. In Chef Arturo’s kitchen, there’s spinach causa, the garlic prawn, but with a garlic citrus mayo and carrot wasabi purée. This was a cause for celebration, as it’s singular, with a distinct flavor profile that I welcomed, gaining strong points for presentation alone.
Anticucho de Pulpo
Anticucho de Pulpo is chargrilled octopus, with the anticuchera sauce smeared on the plate, accompanied by cassava slices, a black olive tapenade, corn, and carrot textures. I really liked how tender the octopus was, and how the other ingredients added to the tasting experience.
Then the Anticucho de Pescado arrived, and this would be my favorite of the day. It’s a toothfish (cod) skewer, the toothfish grilled with an aji panco miso glaze. Served with rocoto mayo, sweet potato, and wasabi salt, the glaze elevated this dish to something exceptional, and many at my table were ready to express this sentiment to Chef Arturo.
De La Selva su Pescado is grilled barramundi, with mishkina sauce, a cassava purée, and coriander coulis. There were two portions of the barramundi, set apart by the coriander flake, which was like a kropek. Ingenious, and the cassava was like a mashed potato side.
The Lomo Saltado is stir-fried prime beef tenderloin, with tomato, onions, soy sauce, and marble potato. Served with rice and a fried egg, the idea was to first mix it all together before indulging. We followed Chef Arturo’s instructions, and it really changed the dish into something hearty, unique, and delicious.
The dessert and mixed drinks at Samba are superb as well, the drinks adding to the tiki atmosphere. Whether with the family or as a romantic dining interlude, Samba knows how to be the right place to head to, and these new dishes of Chef Arturo do hit all the right samba notes. They make up a symphony we’re all ready to surrender to.