Here's what the 'original Birkin bag' looks like
Previously owned by muse Jane Birkin, the prototype of the iconic Hermès bag bears a few differences from the pieces sold today
By John Legaspi
If there’s one luxury fashion piece everyone dreams of owning, it’s the Hermès Birkin bag. More than just a handbag, it is a global status symbol, representing exclusivity, wealth, and timeless luxury—and it all began with British-born artist Jane Birkin.
In 1984, the French luxury house introduced the Birkin bag, initially priced at $2,000, according to Sotheby’s. Its origin story dates back to 1981, when Jane serendipitously met Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight from Paris to London. In an interview with CBS, she recalled how her bag fell, spilling out its contents, prompting Jean-Louis to suggest she find a bag with pockets to keep her things organized.
“What can you do? Hermès don’t make it with pockets,” she responded, unaware that Jean-Louis was the head of the brand.
“He said, ‘I am Hermès’... I said, ‘Why don’t you make a handbag that’s a bit bigger than the Kelly but not as big as my suitcase?’”
Using a sick bag from the flight, Jane sketched a design for an on-the-go woman. A month later, she received a call from Hermès, inviting her to see the prototype. They then asked if the bag could bear her name, to which she happily agreed.
After carrying the bag for years, Jane donated it in 1994 to a charity auction for AIDS research. In 2000, it was resold at another auction at Poulain Le Fur, where it remained in private hands. Today, Jane’s original Birkin is on display at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Maison.
Sotheby’s discovered several key differences between the prototype and the Birkin bags sold today. Among its most remarkable details are the marks left by stickers Jane placed on it in support of Médecins du Monde and UNICEF, showcasing how it was her go-to bag for over a decade. It also features her initials stamped on the front flap and a nail clipper on a chain hanging inside.
In July 2023, Jane Birkin passed away. Beyond being the muse for one of the world’s most coveted bags, she left behind a legacy rooted in authenticity and purpose—proving that the best fashion pieces are created when designers listen to the people they are designing for.
Visit sothebys.com to know more about Jane's Birkin bag.
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