Pitoy Moreno: Never out of style

When we talk about the greats in the Filipino fashion scene, it is hard not to mention Jose “Pitoy” Moreno. Born on Feb. 25, 1925, Pitoy was hailed as the Fashion Czar of Asia for his elaborate creations. His genius was immortalized in a 1996 song by the Filipino band Hotdog. During his illustrious career, he was more than just a designer to Manila’s upper echelon—he was known as a cultural worker and one of the pioneers who introduced Filipino fashion to the world.

This year, in celebration of Pitoy’s centennial anniversary, the Metropolitan Museum of Manila, or the M Museum, puts his life story and works in the spotlight through the “Timeless: J. Moreno” exhibition. Curated by New York-based art historian Dr. Florina H. Capistrano-Baker, with assistance from co-curator Ditas R. Samson and Los Angeles-based fashion curator Clarissa Esguerra, the exhibition features many of Pitoy’s creations unearthed from his archives in his studio in Malate, Manila.

This is not the first time the M Museum has welcomed Pitoy’s pieces into its halls. In 1990, back when the museum was located in the BSP compound, it launched "Kasalan by J. Moreno," an exhibition focusing on the designer’s exquisite bridal couture. This time, “Timeless: J. Moreno” offers a more comprehensive view of the designer’s body of work spanning over six decades, from stage costumes and custom designs for his clients to runway pieces.

Manila Bulletin Lifestyle was given a special tour of “Timeless: J. Moreno” with curators Dr. Florina and Ditas, uncovering more about the designer’s early beginnings and the stories woven into his creations.

Under the tutelage of noted Filipino artists

Pitoy became a master of his craft thanks to the mentors who shared their knowledge and passion with him. As a fine arts student at the University of the Philippines Manila, he was taught by renowned Filipino artists Fernando Amorsolo, Guillermo Tolentino, and Irineo Miranda. Old Filipino paintings inspired him to create traditional Filipino garments. While his formal creative training helped him hone his skills, it was his mother, writer and poet Virginia Moreno, who taught him how to sew the terno.

Setting the standard for costume design

Although he had been designing wedding gowns and custom pieces since the early 1950s, it was from 1958 onward that he truly showcased Filipino design on the world stage. He created costumes for the Bayanihan Dance Company, which were worn at the Brussels Universal Exposition, the Winter Garden Theater in New York, and on The Ed Sullivan Show.

Merging the needs of his clients with his aesthetic

“Timeless: J. Moreno” also highlights Pitoy as the go-to couturier for Manila’s high society. This section of the exhibition showcases how adept he was at merging his aesthetic with his clients’ needs. Among the pieces on display are his creations for former First Lady Eva Macapagal, which feature minimalist designs and optical illusions. In contrast, his designs for Meldy Cojuangco are all about drama and flair, with ternos adorned with intricate beading and grand silhouettes.

A mix of East and West—but still Filipino at the core

After World War II, the world looked to Paris for fashion inspiration, and designers from across the globe were drawn to the city—including Pitoy. But for him, it was also an opportunity to introduce Filipino fashion to the world.

Pitoy blended Eastern and Western elements by using local textiles, such as piña and Mindanaoan tapestries, to create European silhouettes. Examples include his terno with bubble skirts and ball gowns made from piña callado. He also incorporated foreign textiles into traditional Filipino garments, as seen in his Maria Clara ensembles made with lamé and brocade, ternos with phoenix motifs, and gowns crafted from Japanese obi materials—like the one actress Rita Moreno wore to the Oscars.

“I went around the world to show what I do, to make my country proud,” Pitoy once said. “However European my clothes were, I never betrayed my roots... remember this: a Filipino who acknowledges being a Filipino is a successful Filipino.”

The “Timeless: J. Moreno” exhibition runs until June 29, 2025, at the M Museum in Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City.