HEARD IT THROUGH THE GRIPE-VINE

Even if you were not connected with the Philippine food and hospitality industry, there was no escaping what became the two hottest topics on most everyone’s lips two weeks ago, and were featured prominently on social media platforms — the untimely loss of Filipino culinary icon Margarita Araneta-Fores, and the announcement that there would be a Michelin 2026 Guide for Manila & Environs/Cebu, by the end of the year. 

The first, of Gaita’s passing away, stunned so many in disbelief. From Hong Kong, she had been posting about her superb meal of the night before; and then suddenly, we were hearing the whispers of what we refused to believe could be true. Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Best Female Chef of 2016 had “left the kitchen,” and it was an immeasurable loss. 
The outpouring of Gaita anecdotes was like a waterfall of Niagra proportions, and one couldn’t mistake how uniformly, so many kind words were said – as it would seem she truly was the living cliche of not having “a mean bone in her body.” To the Araneta manor she may have been born; but from all walks of life, we would hear of the kind words of support she would offer, how she had time for everyone, and of how they’ll always remember her for inspiring them. She was so genuinely nice, it was easily taken for granted; and now that she’s gone, it is as if “the light has left the room.” 

Many have written about her contributions to our culinary landscape, about Cibo, Lusso, Grace Park; and some of us even remember the good times of Pepato, and were anticipating Margarita at the Ayala Triangle Tower. To be honest, celebrated chefs will come and go; but it’s as a human being that Gaita will be best remembered – not necessarily for some epochal meal we had at one of her establishments (even if there were many), but for that personal encounter we had, and how it’ll always be the measure of what we will recall, and make us misty-eyed, when we hear her name. 

My last real “Gaita encounter” would be October 2024. I was accompanying Issa to the wedding of a friend in Florence, and it would be the mid-1990’s for my last time in Firenze. So I messaged Gaita on the off-chance she could recommend which current dining places to head to. Within the day, she messaged back with a list of her top six restaurants, plus saying why she loved them, and which dish to order in particular. That was super-appreciated, and I’d send her photos of us in front of those dining establishments, and she’d message back her thumbs-up. That was pure Gaita, first finding the time to respond, and then going the extra mile to be of help.

My three sons grew up with Cibo as their perennial go-to when dining out, and it’s their idea of what comfort food is. The Tegamino di Formaggio, the Spinach Dip, the Tagliata di Manzo – those dishes are imprinted on their taste buds… forever! And that’s why I was happy to learn that in some mysterious way, Margarita was thinking succession and continuity. It may have been with slowing down and/or retirement in mind, but the end result is that the holding company of the restaurants are now well-equipped to carry on her legacy, and stay true to her vision.

Her brother Oye, her sister Bledes, plus her son Amado (a restaurateur in his own right), are managing directors; with Chef Jorge Mendez (of Modan and Some Thai) now handling culinary innovation, and as COO Edgar Caper said so succinctly, “We move forward – not without her, but because of her.” Amen. 

It was in 1900 when the French tire company, Michelin, first published a series of guide books establishing them as arbitrers of where to stay and dine, when on the road in France. By 1904, they expanded to other European countries. It was in 1922 that the Red restaurant guide became a popular standalone. And in 1926, the Guide would award stars, with three stars the ultimate recommendation. 

Bib Gourmand was established in 1997, highlighting restaurants that offer “exceptionally good food at moderate prices.” Now more a digital publication, the Michelin Guide has gone global, and is seen as a game changer for Tourism in the countries where the Guide comes out. So much so that in 2022, as per it’s Wikipedia entry, “the Guide expanded to Vietnam, Malaysia, Estonia, and the UAE, in return for undisclosed amounts.”

We’re not told how much was disbursed to have Michelin accept our “invitation” to create a Guide here. I’m hoping for the best, as I understand the anonymous inspectors have been around. I just pray it’ll be worth it, as I noted how Latvia has a Guide, which in 2024 only lists a single one-star establishment, and three under Bib Gourmand. Now, don’t ask me what Latvia paid Michelin, but I’d venture to say that it’s not a healthy Return On Investment. 

Thailand has a Guide that lists 35 with some star, and 196 under Bib. That’s a reflection of the food industry infrastructure in Thailand. Is ours as developed to have made the investment worthwhile?