Experience European holidays like a local in Zurich and Paris
Walking through historic streets, tasting seasonal delights, and soaking in festive cheer
At A Glance
- European Christmas lights have a way of making hearts feel warm—even in the winter cold.
My mother always believed that the merriest season is best experienced on foot—walking through streets with the winter air, pausing for warm drinks, and letting festive lights guide the way. So when my younger brother, a radiologist by profession, completed a month-long medical training in Zurich, Switzerland, it felt like the perfect excuse for us to meet him and finally fulfill our mom’s long-standing wish to experience as many European Christmas holiday festivities as possible.
Illuminarium
Our first full day in Zurich was spent simply getting our bearings, starting with the old town. There was no itinerary—just curiosity and comfortable shoes. That was when we learned that Illuminarium had just opened its Christmas market, with gates opening at 5 p.m. At 74, my mother feels the cold easily, so we gave her fair warning. Armed with thermal layers and hand warmers, we headed out, excited to experience our very first European winter event together.
As we walked toward the Swiss National Museum, or Landesmuseum, colorful graphic projections already danced across its historic façade. It’s a preview of what awaits inside. A long line stretched outside, nearly half a kilometer, prompting us to hesitate. Should we even try? A quick check revealed that the line moved faster than expected, and within 10 minutes, we were in.
Stepping into the courtyard, the energy was unmistakable. Illuminarium is a lively festival of lights, sound, and food held annually from early November to late December. Electronic beats filled the air as vivid projections lit up the surrounding walls. Food stalls and trucks lined the space, from quick bites to a cozy fondue chalet. At the center stood a towering illuminated Christmas tree display, surrounded by visitors enjoying their snacks, chatting, and simply soaking in the atmosphere.
Indoor options included a restaurant and bar, as well as ticketed immersive digital art and light shows on select evenings. General admission to the grounds is free, which makes it an easy stop even on a whim. We also discovered “Sunday Kids Disco,” a free all-ages dance party held every Sunday from 3:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., running until Dec. 30, with closures on Dec. 24 and 25.
Tuileries Garden
Our Christmas market trail continued in Paris, where the holiday season takes on a more charming vibe. First on the list was “La Magie de Noël” at the Tuileries Garden. We began our walk at the Louvre Museum, passing through its underground passageway before emerging into the garden just as the sun began to set. Arriving right before dusk proved ideal, as we got to experience the market in soft daylight before it gradually transformed under warm evening lights.
Rows of wooden chalets lined the garden, offering traditional French treats such as crêpes and chocolates, alongside artisanal gifts and seasonal decor. The Ferris wheel—an unmistakable landmark—added to the nostalgia, especially once illuminated against the night sky. We couldn’t resist ordering a bag of roasted chestnuts, or marrons as the French call them, nibbling on them as we strolled through the long stretch of stalls.
Champs-Élysées
Our last festive stop was the Champs-Élysées Christmas Lights launch, a spectacle on an entirely different scale. On Nov. 16, 2025, an opening ceremony was held at the end of the avenue near the Arc de Triomphe. By 6:30 p.m., the much-anticipated sound-and-LED light show illuminated 400 trees lining the Champs-Élysées.
The main show runs for approximately seven minutes, followed by shorter versions performed every hour until 11:30 pm. From then until early January 2026, the avenue remains lit daily—starting at 5:00 p.m. and lasting until midnight on weekdays, and until 1:00 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Standing in the closed avenue, surrounded by beautifully lit trees on both sides, I appreciated how Paris turns even its busiest boulevard into a shared celebration during the holidays.
These are exactly what she imagined—festive, unhurried, and full of warmth despite the cold. Watching our mother take in the lights, the food, and the magic of winter evenings is a gift in itself, one that makes every step across cobblestones and city streets worth it.