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From rope to runway: PhilFIDA's plans for abaca revival

Published Oct 3, 2025 12:05 am  |  Updated Oct 2, 2025 05:59 pm
AVANT GARDENER
Earlier this week, I attended a very exclusive fashion show held at the National Museum of Fine Art.
The Old Senate Session Hall, from whose three walls hang the 1964 Botong Francisco mural “Filipino Struggles Through History” became the backdrop for the Philippine Textiles Fashion Show organized by the Department of Agriculture’s Philippine Fiber Industry Development Authority (PhilFIDA) in collaboration with different individuals and organizations including fashion director Robbie Carmona and the Masda Aw collective, who held an exhibit of their Kalinga natural dyeing workshop in the space outside the Senate Hall.
"What's good with this event is it's not just one designer. It’s a collaboration of really good designers,” said PhilFIDA executive director Arnold “Ali” Atienza.
Designers Rajo Laurel, Rian Fernandez, and Mags Cue as well as De La Salle-College of St. Benilde FDM Alumni designers Dom Aquio, Hannah Barrera, Gabriel Buenabajo, Joshua Chiong, Sarah Cornejo, Lance Rubio and Kristina Marie Mariano showcased creations made from Philippine fibers, giving special highlight to abaca.
“We really want to revive [Philippine textile]. We have so many natural resources. Abaca, for example, which we were featuring, we're only utilizing, what, 10 percent of what we have,” Atienza said.
The event was graced by international agricultural ministers and the First Lady herself.
“I really wanted to involve the diplomats. Filipinos should focus not just locally. We should look into exports… We already have abaca yarn. It’s really made for textile. Imagine, we’re the only country that has that? That would be a really good product to export because we have no competition,” Atienza said. “The First Lady really wants to [support] this industry. We have enough raw material, we have the demand, but what we need to do is to process it.”
Abaca is endemic to the Philippines and was once one of the country’s biggest agricultural exports. Also called Manila hemp, abaca was used in ropes, money, and paper. Before the advent of plastic, ropes made with abaca were important to the global shipping industry. While the current abaca industry isn’t what it once was, PhilFIDA is aiming to revive this high value crop that has played such a big part in our national identity. As Atienza said, “It’s not just part of agriculture. It's part of our history.”
Beyond textile, PhilFIDA is also pushing for the use of abaca in different products such as plywood and paper. “We’re pushing for all certificates of government to use abaca.”
While abaca isn’t the only Filipino textile, Atienza believes that it should be highlighted, not only because of its historical association with the Philippines, but also because despite centuries of producing and exporting the product, it still holds so much untapped potential. “Abaca is a national treasure, so I’m really focusing on abaca,” he explained. “Of course, we have cotton, we have silk, we have raffia. We have so much fiber, but abaca is endemic. This is where we’re number one, so we really have to focus on it, support it, and at the same time, I want it exported as a finished product.”
Of course, none of this would be possible without the farmers who cultivate abaca. To this end, the Agency is working on a contract growing system that links farmers directly to the businesses that need their raw materials. “I call it ‘Adopt a Farm,’” Atienza said.
The business pays the farmer a salary to grow their raw materials. The farmer gets a steady income and a sure buyer, and the business gets reasonably priced raw materials. “Just call PhilFIDA and we will link you with the farmers,” Atienza said.
Linkage is very important, and highly underrated as a factor of an industry’s success. “PhilFIDA’s focus is to collaborate with the private sector,” Atienza explained. “We know who the farmers are. We know who the producers are. Processors. Let's just link all of them. The end goal is to take care of the farmers, because without the farmers, there's no industry.”
Atienza believes in the importance of collaboration between government and private sectors in boosting an industry, specifically textile. “I think the private sector and the government should collaborate to be able to increase the level of industry,” he said. “On my part, I’m always open to collaboration. In fact, this event practically shows how we can collaborate with the private sector.”
He envisions PhilFIDA organizing similar events in the future. “Actually, we [wanted to invite] other students, but maybe the following year or if we have another event, then we can add as many people as possible.”
The success of the Philippine Textiles Fashion Show, he hopes, will spur the private sector to collaborate with PhilFIDA. “Any private sector [entity] who wants to be involved in Philippine fiber, my office is always open.”
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