The Hulong Duhat wet market.
When we think of food and Malabon City, one of the first things we think of is its iconic Pancit Malabon, characterized by thick, chewy rice noodles; orange sauce flavored with shrimp, fish sauce, and crab roe paste; topped with a heavy sprinkling of egg and seafood—an ode to the abundance of the two rivers that run through it. But residents know that there is more to Malabon’s food culture than its flavorful pancit.
Chef, entrepreneur, and Malabon native Isi Guillen Laureano has been taking guests around the city she grew up in, mostly through her partnership with The Traveling Spoon, an international food tourism platform that offers tourists localized food adventures.
Her idea for a Malabon Food Tour started because she wanted to continue an initiative that the Malabon local government began before the pandemic, but didn’t revive after the world opened up again.
Culinary tour of a chef’s childhood
“I initiated it alongside my aunt, Tita Betsy [Serna David of Betsy’s Cake Center],” she said. “[It is a] Malabon heritage and food tour in a tricycle. It isn’t only about food, but also about our churches and old houses, and even the small museum near where I grew up at Hulong Duhat.”
The revival started as a fundraising initiative for Laureano’s high school alumni homecoming in 2023 and has since turned into its own full-fledged food tour.
Aling Tess’ Valencia, a triangular-shaped turon with sticky rice, is a part of Laureano’s childhood.
Laureano, whose parents hail from the area, is deeply entrenched in Malabon’s food heritage. “Not many people know this but we’re the only Laureanos left here,” she said in Taglish. Her paternal grandfather, Tatay Pido—Virgilio Pacheco Laureano, was also a baker and his wife, Nanay Cordia—Concordia Sioson Laureano, was a heavy influence on Laureano’s cooking.
“I learned a lot from her since she and Tatay Pido would always cook for us everyday from scratch… Nanay Cordia and Tatay Pido had a sari-sari store at Hulong Duhat Palengke (wet market). We didn’t have fast food chains or malls before. It was only the market and Betsy’s. We had to go to Caloocan or QC to get to a mall or a Jollibee.”
Those who are in the know visit Malabon for Judy Ann’s Crispy Pata.
Her maternal grandparents, Federico and Natividad Guillen, were fish and seafood dealers. “Growing up, we were very lucky to get a constant supply of all the seafood and fish we love. They are from Dampalit, Malabon, right at the back of Sto. Rosario Church. My grandmother also took us every summer to Ilocos Sur, so we have a lot of food influences not only from Malabon but also from Ilocanos and Bulacan,” she said.
A local food paradise
When Laureano used to mention that she was from Malabon, people’s first impressions were either that it’s far or that it always floods there. “All they know is Pancit Malabon and sapin-sapin from Dolor’s Kakanin,” Laureano said. “But when we were young, we’d buy Valencia, a triangular-shaped turon with sticky rice, from Aling Tess… Our lechon is from Malabon Lechon; that was my gauge for the other lechons out there…. Judy Ann’s Crispy Pata was also a treat for us! That was also our gauge for crispy pata… The Hulong Duhat wet market had snacks like fish crackers I’d dip in banana ketchup.”
The tour involves visiting local food producers and tourist spots, many of them staples from Laureano’s childhood, including the San Bartolome Church, the Concepcion Market for the famous Okoy ni Kuya Jay-R and the stalls of tinapa and rellenong bangus, a pianono bakery, the kikiam being sold at the garage near the Rufina Patis factory, and Aling Mely’s carinderia, whose food reminds Laureano of her childhood.
Guests can take home various pasalubong, including authentic Malabon patis and some of Laureano’s homemade sauces.
“I think what’s special is that we have been consuming these ever since we were born, and now people get to know more about my hometown through food.”
The tour’s last stop is Betsy’s Cake Center, where everyone has the chance to wind down with, of course, more goodies.
Soft braos and Pancit Malabon from Betsy’s Cake Center.
“Tita Betsy does a spread of our specialities from the cakeshop, including her famous soft broas for dessert... The Pancit Malabon on my tour is made by Tita Betsy… Everyone goes home full. I tell my participants not to eat breakfast,” Laureano said. “I not only make you enjoy everything, but the local makers are also happy that we support them.”
Laureano meets her guests at the Fishermall Malabon branch, where they can park their vehicles. The tour starts around 8-9 a.m. and ends around lunchtime. She can accommodate solo travelers to a group of 12, though bigger groups can be arranged.
“In my own little way, I know I am preserving my heritage in my hometown, but also cherishing the memories I have with food in the households I grew up in. I wish more people would appreciate our stories and our contribution to our local cuisine.”
Just make sure you check the weather forecast before you book a tour.
Photos courtesy of Isi Laureano