After Maria Grazia Chiuri departs from Dior, all eyes are on the brand’s newest creative director, Jonathan Anderson—and for good reason. He is the first since the legendary Christian Dior himself to oversee the brand’s menswear, womenswear, and haute couture.

Anticipation reached its peak during Paris Men’s Fashion Week for spring-summer 2026. For his debut collection, Jonathan merges past and present, decoding and recoding the brand’s identity. Presented at the architecturally stunning Hôtel des Invalides in Paris last June 27, 2025, the collection centered on the reconstruction of formality.

Gracing the runway were Bar jackets in Donegal tweeds, regimental neckties, and 18th- to 19th-century waistcoats articulated with ease and modernity by pairing them with denim, chinos, and sneakers. Among the standout elements of Jonathan’s inaugural collection was his couture treatment of cargo shorts, reimagined in bold and voluminous silhouettes. Some of the pieces are also decorated with roses, little embroideries, and Diorette charms, adding a touch of rococo feel to the clothes.

Also hard to miss were the bags that adorned many of the looks. These accessories offered a first glimpse of the direction the new creative director is taking when the were posted online. The Dior Book Tote feature book covers from Parisian publisher Éditions des Saints Pères, inclusding “Les Fleurs du Mal” by Charles Baudelaire and “In Cold Blood” by Truman Capote. The crossbody bag paid homage to another iconic literary work, “Dracula” by Bram Stoker. Meanwhile, the Lady Dior has been re-imagined by artist Sheila Hicks and cloaked in a nest of pure linen ponytails.

Through the collection, Jonathan not only redefined formalwear but also emphasized the charm of the ordinary and sincere—the beauty found in clothes with emotional connection rather than spectacle.

Check out Jonathan's first collection for Dior below: