What's it like to bathe in a Japanese onsen?
A look into Japan's hot spring bath culture
By Poch Eulalia
At A Glance
- Did you know? 'Guinness Book of World Records' recognizes an onsen establishment (Nishiyama Onsen Keiunkan) as one of the oldest hotels in the world, dating as far back as 705 AD.
ALL NATURAL Water in an onsen is hot due to the water undergoing a geothermal heating process.
There’s an oddly peaceful feeling being nude in a Japanese hot spring… And yes, even when you’re sharing it with a group of similarly naked Japanese men.
Japan has quickly become a beloved destination for traveling Filipinos for the countless sites, activities, food, and experiences it offers. Though one activity many Filipinos might seem hesitant to try is the Japanese onsen experience.
Onsen refers to a hot spring, a body of water naturally heated by heat within the planet. It is also used to refer to the facility itself that houses the hot spring. Ancient Japanese onsens were often frequented due to the belief that they could make you beautiful or cure any illnesses you had. These days, locals visit the onsen to unwind after a long day of work.
SOOTHING SOAK Monkeys in Jigokudani Monkey Park can often be spotted enjoying the hot springs in small groups.
One reason many tourists might opt out of the onsen experience is its communal bathing aspect. Some think of it as a health risk, while others just don’t feel comfortable being naked around others. While these are perfectly valid, fret not. In Japan, there are laws that require certain parameters to be met before a place can be granted the onsen title. To qualify, the water must be over 25°C and contain natural minerals like iron. Before entering the onsen, you also go through a shower area where you can thoroughly wash with soap and shampoo before entering the hot spring.
Admittedly, at first, the self-awareness can be jarring once you strip down and walk inside. This feeling starts to fade away once you step into the water, and your mind resets itself to a serene state once it sinks in that the others aren’t around to look at you, they’re there to relax as well. A small towel is often provided, just enough to cover the nether regions as you enter the hot spring. If you still find the communal aspect isn’t for you, there are onsens that offer a private bath, but these usually require a booking beforehand.
OUT IN THE MOUNTAINS Amaharashi Onsen Isohanabi in Takaoka City, Toyama. (Photo from Visit Toyama)
Where can you go for an onsen experience?
Japan has thousands of onsen, mostly due to the readily available hot spring sources scattered throughout the country. During a media trip organized by the Japanese National Tourism Organization (JNTO) to Toyama last year, we spent a night at Amaharashi Onsen Isohanabi in Takaoka City. The early morning onsen experience is remarkable, as it provides a view of the Tateyama Mountain Range in the distance on a clear day. What makes the inn unique is how it lets you wear Japanese robes as you navigate the place, allowing for a sense of immersion. Over dinner, you can sometimes overhear the joyous clamor of other guests in their dining areas, likely enjoying some drinks and a full meal before hitting the onsen.
FULLY IMMERSED The author enjoying sushi and drinks while wearing a robe provided by the inn.
TRADITIONAL FASHION Folks wearing yukata outfits are a common sight along Otani River at Kinosaki Onsen. (Photo from Hyogo Official Tourism Navigation)
There are also villages that have onsen in their name, like the hot spring town of Kinosaki Onsen, just a few hours away by train from Kyoto. Kinosaki Onsen is best known for its seven tattoo-friendly natural hot spring baths, but many also come to Kinosaki Onsen for its summer festivities. Visitors wearing yukata outfits are a common sight along the Otani River from July to August. You’ll also spot folks releasing lanterns into the river, as the lanterns are said to carry one’s dreams. Come nighttime, Kinosaki bursts with life as the river is illuminated by the floating lanterns and fireworks take over the sky.