Nestled along the banks of the Chao Phraya River, the Peninsula Bangkok opened in 1998 as a five-star hotel that offered a unique urban resort experience. It created the illusion of being an oasis within the teeming city, a respite from the urban snarl. To achieve that, it helped that for 20 years, gigantic malls like the premium IconSiam had not yet opened beside the hotel. IconSiam officially opened in late 2018, with its large shopping mall, hotels and residences.

With its riverside heritage, the Peninsula’s Thiptara allows one to dine under the glittering stars while the teeming river life of Bangkok glides by. Banyan trees and lush gardens accentuate the ambiance of this restaurant that combines old grandeur with impeccable Thai cuisine. So to hear that Peninsula Bangkok Thai chef Monnipa Rungthong was in town to refresh the menu of Spices at the Peninsula Manila was definitely exciting news.

Spices has been a longtime favorite of mine since the day it opened its doors. For Issa and myself, the Spices Pavilion is our favorite spot in the establishment, seeming to bring the tropical outdoors into the restaurant without sacrificing the comfort and convenience of being indoors. That the cooking demonstration of Chef Monnipa would be happening at the Pavilion was a bonus value when Peninsula Manila Director of Public Relations Mariano Garchitorena messaged me to join the media group who would get dibs on the new menu.

Roughly, there will be six new dishes incorporated into the current Spices menu, and this early, I can say that if one hears what the dishes are, one may think they’re merely variations on dishes that already exist. But that would be a mistake—similar to thinking that chanterelle and morels are ordinary, run-of-the-mill mushrooms. There’s some kitchen voodoo that happens when Chef Monnipa creates her new dishes, and I’m guessing her visit meant she’s running through the whole Spices menu, especially the Thai dishes.

Her Pla Tod Yum Mamuang is crispy seabass green mango salad, and honestly, she had me at the tamarind chili paste sauce alone. It was spicy and sour—but in a good way—and one could already imagine how it would integrate beautifully with the green mango and the morsels of seabass. There was a good second dish that had beef tenderloin as its main ingredient, and I will include a photo of it, but the one I have to tempt you with is the crispy seabass. It’s not the catfish salad we’re used to, but something different and just as exciting to try for the first time.

Her mango sticky rice was different enough for me to raise my eyebrows and offer my salute. I loved how she agreed that Philippine mangoes are the best, and she was more than happy to use them in the version that will be served at Spices. She did something with the coconut water that those who cook in the media group with me commented on. Me, I’m basically useless in the kitchen—just feed me and I serve a purpose. So I can’t explain why this was different mango sticky rice, but it was—and it was great!

The new Spices menu is officially introduced to the public on May 30, and it’s a great reason to revisit Spices—to recall why it’s been such a favorite for close to half a century. That’s some legacy that the Peninsula Manila can be very proud of.