Think of it as a food pyramid, but for your face—a guide to what your skin truly needs, and what’s just icing on the cake.
Why less is more for glowing skin
Understanding the skincare pyramid approach
At a glance
Walk into any beauty store today, and you’re met with walls of serums promising glass skin, creams that claim to reverse time, and TikTok’s latest “miracle” ingredient. It’s overwhelming. Every day people worry, “Am I doing enough for my skin?”
Often, though, they’re doing too much—and it’s doing more harm than good. The truth is beautiful skin isn’t about having the most complicated routine. It’s about getting the fundamentals right. That’s the wisdom behind the Skin Health and Beauty Pyramid, a clinically backed system developed by dermatologists Dr. Flor Mayoral, Dr. Julie Kenner, and Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos. Think of it as a food pyramid, but for your face—a guide to what your skin truly needs, and what’s just icing on the cake.
The foundation: Protect and nourish
At the base of the pyramid—the non-negotiables—are sunscreen, antioxidants, and moisturizers.
If nothing else is done for the skin, these are the essentials:
• Sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher): It’s the best anti-aging product you’ll ever own. UV rays cause up to 80 percent of visible skin aging—wrinkles, dark spots, sagging—so protecting against them is step one.
• Antioxidants (Vitamin C, E, and the rising star L-ergothioneine): These shield the skin from pollution and stress, while brightening and boosting repair.
• Moisturizer (Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide): Keeping the skin barrier healthy prevents dryness, irritation, and premature aging.
Without this base, other treatments are like building a house on sand.
The middle: Treat and renew
Once the foundation is strong, treatments for aging, acne, or texture can be layered in. This is where ingredients like retinoids, peptides, and exfoliants come in:
• Retinoids (Retinol, Tretinoin, Adapalene): The gold standard for collagen production and cell turnover. It can be irritating at first, but when introduced slowly and consistently, results are transformative.
• Peptides and growth factors: These support collagen and can improve elasticity. While not miraculous, they can complement a well-rounded routine.
• Exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs): These acids help slough off dead skin to keep pores clear and brighten the complexion. Once or twice a week is enough. Over-exfoliating can damage the skin barrier and lead to irritation.
The top: Target and refine
At the tip of the pyramid are the specialized treatments. These are usually the products marketed most aggressively but representing the smallest part of an effective routine. This includes brightening agents, DNA repair enzymes, and trendy botanicals:
• Brightening agents (Hydroquinone, Arbutin, Kojic Acid, Tranexamic Acid): Useful for treating stubborn dark spots and pigmentation issues.
• DNA repair enzymes (Roxisomes, Photolyase, Endonuclease): An exciting area of research, these enzymes may help repair UV-induced damage at a cellular level.
• Botanicals and probiotics: Ingredients like CBD or plant extracts can offer anti-inflammatory or soothing benefits but are generally seen as enhancements, not essentials.
While these products can elevate a routine, they can’t replace the basics. Without sunscreen, no brightening serum can undo sun damage.
Why this pyramid matters
The Skin Health and Beauty Pyramid serves as a guide to cut through the clutter of modern skincare marketing.
It helps refocus on what’s proven to work, steering people away from ingredient overload or expensive trends that may not deliver.
For those building or simplifying their routine:
1. Start with the base:
• SPF 30+ daily.
• Antioxidant serum in the morning.
• Moisturizer suited to your skin type.
2. Introduce treatments slowly:
• Retinoid at night (two to three times a week to start).
• Exfoliate occasionally, not daily.
3. Consider specialty products only if needed:
• Brighteners for pigmentation.
• Peptides or DNA repair for aging support.
The takeaway
The Skin Health and Beauty Pyramid is more than a skincare routine—it’s a return to simplicity.
Beautiful, healthy skin doesn’t require 12 steps or the latest serum. It requires consistency with a few clinically proven essentials.
In the end, the real secret to glowing skin is that less is often more.