I found a lovely place to do nothing in the company of dense foliage, and the sound of a crackling river breaking silence. In the morning, the birds chirped like gentle alarm clocks. In the evening, the frogs croaked, and the leaves muffled crackling sounds.
That place is named Balai Tanay located at the foothills of Mt. Daraitan in Tanay, about 50 kilometers from Quezon City. Although the rainforest setting tells of being in the middle of nature, I was only about five steps to the comfort of urban living. Tucked away in a modern kitchen were an induction stove, refrigerator, microwave, rice cooker – and basic kitchen condiments.
I was in the Bahay Kubo, a classic-modern version which stood along a river bank, had the kubo’s signature narrow steps up to the second and third floors. Inside, the comforts of modern life were for a restful day away from it all – airconditioned rooms and a large bath and toilet with hot-and-cold water – and toiletries that you don’t see in many three-star hotels. A dining table stood below a wide awning with trees and giant ferns defining its borders.
From there, the sound of the river, the cool evening climate and good conversation with friends were luxury amenities only for those who can afford the time to get away from the city.
Nearby, the Jeepney Camper Suite flashed another Pinoy icon – a real jeepney converted into a bedroom with a queen-size bed and a room ref, and of course, an aircon unit to keep the temperature constantly cool. An outdoor kitchen and dining area – plus a private bonfire pit – offer guests the pleasure of star gazing, cooking, and conversation, all at the same time.
A short walk away, another tropical garden provides the ReBus Camper (housing eight beds) with private space. A fully-stocked kitchen is behind a bar; a dining table stands under the awning; a private bonfire pit waits for the evening to roll in; and a neatly designed “shed house” with dainty Capiz shell doors houses a toilet and bath.
At the other side of the property is the Alitaptap Cottage, for larger groups. The cottage is the closest urban-looking structure in Balai Tanay and can accommodate 13 guests.
The centerpiece of the small village is the “main house” fully furnished as a family vacation house. It is the original structure that started Balai Tanay, where the family of Mike and Kyle Go had vacationed for years before the idea of turning it into a board-and-breakfast place came up about five years ago.
The brothers who manage the place, make a good team. Mike is an interior designer and Kyle, a chef. The ideas of creating charming cottages from common structures like the jeepney and bus which they purchased as junk and transformed into comfortable cottages—and the design of the Bahay Kubo – flowed from Mike, who must have been inspired by culture and nature. Who among Filipinos did not draw a bahay kubo sometime in elementary school?
So what can a guest do at Balai Tanay? There are a few things to do, really. There’s a pool with jacuzzi inside the property. There’s a one-kilometer trail along the river that leads to what they call the “swimming hole.” There are private bonfire pits surrounded by stone benches. And there’s the off-road trail that leads to the Daraitan River where the adventurous with 4x4 vehicles can explore – swimming, tubing, or simply for a picnic.
I was lucky to have been invited to join a group of overlanders led by Mike who had explored the mountain and the river many times. They – Mike and Kyle, and their friends – Pete Vargas, Jaime Lazatin and Lawrence Dy – do not stop driving when there’s a river. They drive on, expertly maneuvering their 4x4 vehicles through rocky terrain and deep water, defying the current. Because it was too deep to cross to the other side, they settled on an “island” and set up camp – opening a table, camping chairs, bottles of beer – and putting sausages over a griller. But before settling in, water tubes were inflated and they floated along the river – enjoying the simple joys of being outdoors.
Later, we settled around the table, grilled sausages, nibbled on cheeses, drank beer and wine, and enjoyed conversation. A drizzle failed to dampen the mood. Sunset laid a golden carpet over the mountains. Twilight descended. The stars came. We were still there.
Finally, minutes before midnight, they called it a day. Like natives of that river, in pitch dark with only vehicle headlights, they found invisible lanes and the not-so-deep route back to dry land.
The drive back to Balai Tanay was another hidden joy. Have you ever seen a forest in the dark, lighted by the halos of the vehicles’ head lamps? It’s a sight that stokes many feelings – anxiety over being there at past midnight; nostalgia over days gone by; and delight in being with a group of fine gentlemen who still take time for simple joys.
When you have a weekend like that, you wish you had more time for another – soon.