What makes a great fine dining restaurant? This is the question I asked myself when Arch. Carlo Calma sent me an invitation to dine at Asador Alfonso before it opened to the public in May 2024. Value for money? Taste? Proximity? Why go to a destination fine dining restaurant when you can conveniently drive around the city or simply order in?
The answer is, of course, the experience.
There is no doubt that the Spanish gastronomic experience offered by Asador Alfonso, co-owned by celebrated Chef Chele Gonzalez, exudes authenticity in preparation, presentation, and multi-sensory experience. One might wonder whether the one-and-a-half-hour ride from Bonifacio Global City in Taguig City to the Calma family’s 9.4-hectare estate in Alfonso, Cavite, the site of the hottest architectural landmark in recent memory, “The Lava Rock,” is worth it. But if you build it, they will come.
As Irene Fernandez, the Spanish maître and wife of Spanish in-house Chef Rodrigo Osorio, graciously toured us around, I couldn’t help but wonder about the thought process, time, and hard work that went into designing and building the project. There is a saying that we also eat with our eyes. To complement the food, the interior design and architecture offer a visual feast.
She shared that Calma’s overall design inspiration for Asador Alfonso revolves around the property’s topography and its proximity to Taal Volcano. Calma himself revealed that upon first visiting the site with his 94-year-old father, Pablito Calma, he was inspired to create a distinct approach to placemaking with his own signature flair for architectural language.
For the interiors, he proved that form follows function as well. The heart of every volcano is its magma chamber. The heart of Asador Alfonso is its kitchen, where one will find its true source of heat: a notable Horno Jumaco Maestro Castellano roasting oven.
The material selection and finish of the interiors help perfect the balance of luxury and comfort in dining. The exotic Patagonia marble stone countertop in the main kitchen, paired with the onyx stone satin-finished floor tiles, set against the amalgamation of lime-washed concrete and light oak wood-veneered wall and ceiling treatments, create an opulent yet warm, organic ambiance in the main dining hall.
The play of angular and undulating silhouettes of Asador Alfonso’s architecture and interiors carefully mimic organic topographical elements of active lava flow with glowing crevices. A three-dimensional, origami-looking back-lit wall mural on the second floor dining area is also a design highlight, simulating another pocket explosion of visual interest. The playful linear patterns found on the ceiling and walls of certain private areas are still surprisingly linked to the concept of Asador Alfonso’s country landscape.
As a matter of aesthetics, meaning how a thing appears, Asador Alfonso is a project that connects every element together. Calma’s design perspective reflects the concept of placemaking, finding inspiration in the marriage of nature and architecture. As a total work of art, Asador Alfonso is the only dining destination that matters.