ENDEAVOR

Revisiting Iloilo after nine years was truly a rejuvenating experience.

Last time it was “work,” being part of the Philippine Independence Day celebration in June, 2015. Then President Benigno ‘Noynoy’ Aquino decided to hold the official commemoration, as well as the vin d’honneur for the diplomatic corps, in the province and city of Iloilo.

He delivered his Freedom Day speech at the courtyard of the Santa Barbara Church, declared as a National Landmark in 1991. It was site where General Martin Delgado led the first Cry of Revolution against the Spaniards outside Luzon, and served as the general headquarters and military hospital of the revolutionary forces. Then the vin d’honneur, a twice yearly celebration for the diplomatic corps in the country, was held at the Casa de Real, the renovated Iloilo provincial capitol building.

This time, it was for leisure, in the company of Asian Institute of Management (AIM) classmates, as our Master in Business Management (MBM) class of 1978 looks forward to marking our golden jubilee in 2028.

Nine years ago, two major national highways — each named after Cory and Ninoy Aquino – were inaugurated, facilitating travel between Iloilo and the other Panay Island provinces of Antique, Aklan and Capiz. Three months later, in September 2015, the new Iloilo Convention Center (Icon) was also inaugurated, in time for the holding of the APEC meeting. Icon stands on a lot donated by Megaworld Corporation that won the bidding for the development of what used to be the Mandurriao Airport. Designed by Ilonggo architect William Coscolluela, the Icon’s design was inspired by Iloilo’s Dinagyang and Paraw Regatta festivals.

Visiting Iloilo’s ancient churches was one of our two priorities. Our first stop was at the St. Anne’s Church in Molo, which is dubbed as the feminist church, as it features the statues of 16 female saints — and life-sized statues of Greek goddesses in an adjacent park. Then we visited the Jaro cathedral, shrine of Our Lady of the Candles (Nuestra Señora de Candelaria) whose image was crowned by the late Saint John Paul II during his papal visit. In contrast to the Molo church, the Jaro cathedral honors male saints in its walls. A constant stream of devotees — mostly tourists and students — visit these churches.

Billed as the most famous church in Iloilo is the St. Thomas of Villanueva church in Miag-ao, a 45-minute to an hour’s drive from Iloilo city passing through Tigbauan and Guimbal towns along the shores of Panay Gulf. This church is a UNESCO World Heritage and Conservation site because it stands as a model of the tropical baroque architectural style. It is also known as a fortress against invaders with four-meter thick walls of yellowish limestones.

Sadly, the church is far from being hospitable to visiting tourists. Its public toilets were closed when we visited. When we requested the parish office secretary’s assistance, she grudgingly permitted the use of their private comfort room — as if our presence was a first-class nuisance.

Our best meal experience came at an unexpected venue, Balay Namm, a roadside eatery in Miag-ao across Casa Nena, a hostel and events place. ‘Nena’ is Nelson Napud, the entrepreneur-owner of both establishments. It was already past 1 p.m. when we decided to try Balay Namm after our visit to Miag-ao church – and after our initial foray en route to a seaside restaurant was stymied by several low-hanging electric wires that needed to be cleared by our van.

We were served a lunch menu of bam-i, tortang talong and shell fish, only 15 minutes after we arrived – and our group of 11 finished the tasty viands in quick order, with an extra order of bam-I to boot.

We were ready to submit our senior citizen discount cards — all 11 of them — when we received our bill and found out that our individual share was a measly ₱150 each. We gladly gave the three employees — the cashier and two waitresses – a generous tip to show our appreciation. This was truly a welcome contrast to our earlier experience in the parish office.

Aside from the grand churches, we also visited the Lopez Heritage House (Nelly’s Garden) and Casa Mariquit.

Don Vicente Lopez and his wife, Doña Elena Hofileña built the mansion for their family and named it after their eldest daughter Nelly. Its sprawling four-hectare expanse has earned it the title, Queen of Heritage Houses of Iloilo, and is used for public tours and events. Don Vicente’s elder brother, Iloilo Governor Benito Villanueva Lopez, was assassinated in 1908, so he assumed guardianship of his nephews, Eugenio (Eñing) and Fernando (Nanding), co-founders of ABS-CBN Corporation.

Nanding was elected vice president twice, serving with Elpidio Quirino and Ferdinand E. Marcos Sr. His memorabilia are enshrined in Casa Mariquit, or the Fernando Lopez Museum, that is located on Santa Isabel Street in Jaro, also a popular tourist destination.

Iloilo City, the original Queen City of the South, being the second city of the country after Manila, is proudly heralded today as the Heart of the Philippines. Its grandeur is highlighted by the Iloilo River Esplanade, a nine-kilometer linear park, designed by Paulo Alcazaren, that stretches on both sides of the river from Carpenter’s Bridge in Mandurriao and Molo districts, to Muelle Loney Bridge in the city center and Lapuz districts.

Recalling my previous visit in 2015 provided a good vantage point for realizing that in less than a decade, Iloilo City has, indeed, been transformed into a scenic and elegant destination for lifelong friends who wish to celebrate life’s blessings.