By NEIL ALVIN NICERIO

After months of meticulous planning and numerous adventures, we’ve achieved an extraordinary feat—we have visited and explored all 179 municipalities of Hokkaido making us the first Filipino family to do so! As Japan’s northernmost and largest prefecture, Hokkaido captivates with its breathtaking landscapes, vibrant culture, and ever-changing seasons. It has been named “The Most Attractive Prefecture” for 16 consecutive years—and for good reason. 

From snow-draped peaks and vibrant lavender fields to charming fishing villages and lively urban centers, every part of Hokkaido holds its unique tale.

How it started 

Being accepted as an Assistant Language Teacher under the JET Programme and assigned to Rumoi City in Hokkaido Prefecture meant that I had only three to five years to work and experience life in this beautiful region. Luckily, I was able to bring my family along, and I was determined to make our every weekend unforgettable. We started exploring nearby towns by car—many of which we had never heard of before. That’s when we discovered that each municipality had its own charm: scenic tourist spots, a main shrine, and even a uniquely designed manhole cover. Some towns also have roadside stations and special Pokémon-themed manhole covers, sparking our curiosity to see more. What began as a simple weekend routine soon evolved into a full-fledged mission to discover every corner of Hokkaido.

Our travel goals

As part of our quest to visit all 179 municipalities in Hokkaido under the hashtag #Hokkaido179, we made it a point to fully immerse ourselves in each destination rather than merely passing through. To stay true to this goal, we’ve established a few personal rules: visit the local roadside station (Michi no Eki) and collect its unique stamp as a keepsake; pay our respects at the main shrine of each municipality; photograph its distinct manhole cover; and explore at least one local tourist spot, be it a museum, café, library, park, monument, or scenic landscape. To share our adventures and inspire others, we document our family travels on our Facebook page, JapaNice Adventures, and on my travel website, The Backpack Adventures.

Like any journey, there were challenges along the way. While completing our travel goal was incredibly fun and rewarding, it wasn't always easy. Here are some of the key challenges we encountered along the way.

1. We don’t visit new towns in winter. We chose not to go on road trips during the winter months, which extended the time it took to complete our goal to nearly two years. Heavy snow and icy roads made driving too risky, so we paused our adventures for the three harshest months of the season.

2. Our car is small and relatively old. Imagine fitting a baby car seat, all travel essentials, and sometimes camping gear into our old 2004 Suzuki Swift, where every inch of space was carefully packed to the brim. On one journey to the remote town of Engaru, our car broke down, forcing us to make a challenging trip back to Rumoi by public transport.

3. My wife gave birth. Our travels hit a brief pause for about three months when my wife gave birth, and it took some time to adjust and settle into our new routine—this time, as a family of four. Fun fact: We love this prefecture so much that we did not hesitate to name our son Leonne Hokkaido.

4. Language barriers. In remote island towns like Rishiri, Rebun, and Okushiri, arranging car rentals proved challenging due to the need to make reservations by phone in Japanese. On several occasions, our attempts to communicate in English led to being hung up on. We eventually relied on the help of Japanese friends to secure the bookings.

5. Road hazards. As our destinations took us farther from Rumoi, we often hit the road as early as 3 a.m. and returned late into the night. Night driving came with its own risks—wildlife like deer and foxes frequently crossed the roads, and rural areas posed challenges like poorly lit routes, narrow mountain paths, dense fog, and unpredictable terrain.

Mission accomplished

After a little over two years of exploring, my family and I proudly completed our bucket list on Oct. 27, 2024, marking the culmination of an incredible journey through Hokkaido. Among the highlights of our adventure were visiting all 179 municipalities, including the remote islands of Teuri and Yagishiri, and stopping at all 127 roadside stations (Michi no Eki). We also tracked down all 42 Pokémon manhole covers scattered across Hokkaido. 

Our travels took us to the “most points” of the region: Cape Soya, the northernmost point; Cape Shirakami, the southernmost point; and Cape Nossapu, the easternmost point. We also explored the “Gems of Hokkaido,” which included Lake Mashu, renowned for its crystal-clear waters; Lake Kussharo, the largest caldera lake in Japan; the Notsuke Peninsula, the country’s largest sandspit; Cape Erimo, known as the windiest place in Japan; and two spectacular national parks—Daisetsuzan, the largest in Hokkaido, and Shiretoko, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Each destination added a unique chapter to our unforgettable adventure. 

Completing the #Hokkaido179 goal became even more unforgettable when we were interviewed and featured in Hokkaido Shimbun, one of the region’s leading newspapers. The feature not only celebrated our journey but also showcased Hokkaido’s diverse attractions, inspiring readers to discover its lesser-known destinations. In addition, my family and I were honored to receive an invitation to meet personally with the Philippine Consul General in Sapporo City.

We are deeply grateful for these incredible opportunities and the chance to share our love for Hokkaido with others. These moments have made our #Hokkaido179 journey even more meaningful, and we hope to continue exploring and inspiring others to embark on their own once-in-a-lifetime adventures.