CLINICAL MATTERS
In my last column I spoke about our visit to the magical blue city of Chefchaouen in the Rif mountains of Morocco where Jewish refugees expelled from Europe were welcomed to settle. From Chefchaouen, our travels next brought us to the eternal city of Fes.
Fes, or Fez as it is known in English, has been around since the eighth century. Fes has many historical firsts, including being the site of the first University in the world, founded by a woman. This kind of cultural heritage permeates the entire medina, or old part of the city. Centuries-old tanneries produce some of the best leather in the world, along with many other high-quality crafts such as intricate wood work and scarf-making. The Islamization of Africa began in Fes and spread throughout the region. One day is not enough to explore everything Fes has to offer, and the highlights we saw made us want to come back to see more in the future.
Our next stop was the village of Merzouga, near where the golden sand dunes of Erg Chebbi in the Sahara desert are can be found. We crossed the Middle Atlas Mountains through Ifrane, also known as “the Switzerland of Morocco” due to its verdant cedar forests and picturesque mountain landscapes, to get there. We saw some Barbary macaques in the mountains as we drove through. When we got to the outskirts of Erg Chebbi, we transferred to a 4x4 vehicle which took us deeper into the desert. We then rode camels to watch the sun set beneath the dunes which was an incredibly spiritual experience. We made our way to our overnight desert camp where we had a traditional Berber meal and music around a campfire. In December, the desert is very cold especially after the sun sets. Fortunately, our tents were equipped with modern conveniences including hot water and heaters for a comfortable stay. Away from the lights of the city, we saw millions of stars in the clear desert sky. The next morning, we got up early to watch the sunrise among the sand dunes and our enchanted desert experience was complete. The entire family agreed that the night in the Sahara was by far the biggest highlight of the entire trip.
We took another camel ride out of the desert camp and then drove through the Todghra Valley where we saw different kasbahs, or old-style fortified residences. Some kasbahs were made of mud bricks and were centuries old. Sadly, some of these were damaged by the recent earthquake and some people were hurt by falling rocks from the mountainside. We stayed at a kasbah overnight and marveled at the ancient architecture which was spruced up with modern amenities. Outside our kasbah balcony were curious rock formations in the mountains called monkey fingers, which were likely formed millions of years ago due to the highly active seismologic forces of the region.
Our next stop was the Dades Valley with its spectacular rock formations before heading to Ouarzazate which is where Atlas Studios is located. Many Hollywood movies have been filmed in Morocco due to its spectacular natural formations and backdrops. We saw sets from Lawrence of Arabia, Ben Hur, Cleopatra, The Passion of Christ, and many other movies and shows. After touring the studio, we made our way to the magnificent Ksar (a group of earthen building surrounded by high walls) of Ait-Ben-Haddou which was built in the 17th century and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ait-Ben-Haddou is also the site of many films as well, including scenes from Gladiator and the Game of Thrones. We then crossed over Tichka Pass in the High Atlas Mountains and finally reached the red city of Marrakech where we had a celebratory dinner to mark the New Year.
Marrakech is the second largest city in Morocco and one of the most historic. We again stayed at a magnificent traditional riad that opened to the sky and afforded breathtaking views of the city skyline. The medina of Marrakech is one of the largest in the country and hosts the Bahia palace and the historic Koutoubia Mosque. The main square of Jamaal el Fna is a riot of snake charmers, traditional watermen in their bright red costumes and shops selling all manner of wares. We ate a meal on the rooftop of a restaurant named “Darna” of all things overlooking the square and enjoyed the local delicacies of chicken tajine and lamb kebab. A sojourn deep into the labryrinth of the medina with our guide revealed even more shops and craftsmen demonstrating how they build wooden puzzle boxes, weave and dye intricate scarves, and work metal into meticulous designs. We then drove to the modern part of Marrakech to the Majorelle Garden with its lush cactuses and trees and the stylish house of Yves Saint Laurent. The streets of modern Marrakech resemble those of Paris or that of any modern European city, except for the palm trees lining the roads.
We got up the next day before sunrise for a hot air balloon ride outside the city to see the Atlas mountains. We sipped mint tea in a Berber tent as the balloons were being inflated and huddled close to braziers burning wood to keep warm. The sun rose as we hovered high above the ground, with only the quick bursts of flame from the balloon burners disturbing the unnatural stillness amongst the clouds. Enchanting is the only way I can describe the experience.
We then hit the road again on our way to Casablanca. We had lunch at Rick’s Café, a replica of the one in the movie and sipped cocktails on a roulette table. We then visited the Hassan II mosque, the largest in Africa and third largest in the world after the mosques in Mecca and Medina. The intricate decorations in marble and wood adorning the impossibly high ceilings enhanced the calmness and stillness of this house of God, and celebrated the ingenuity and devotion of man. We ended our visit to Casablanca with a quick visit to its medina, which, while not as large as those of Fes and Marrakech, exuded its own charm.
This trip to Morocco is indeed the trip of a lifetime, encompassing the many historical and cultural faces of this magnificent country. Despite all we have seen, I have a feeling we have barely scratched the surface of this enigmatic nation. The contrasts of old and new, real and Hollywood, and most of all the warmth of its people make any traveler want to come back for more.