Returning from my husband’s postings in Kuala Lumpur and Berlin in late 2020, my determination to catch up on everything I missed about Manila hasn’t waned even after almost three years. I find myself embracing the role of a tourist whenever the chance presents itself.
Recently, I had the pleasure of venturing out to Old Manila and Binondo with foreign friends, playing tour guide along with my husband, an activity we love doing for friends.
My friend, Shilpa, and her husband are in Manila on a diplomatic posting, and their friend Suze, originally from Ireland and having lived in Vietnam for a few years, wanted to explore the Philippines before heading back home. Among Suze’s requests was to visit the oldest Chinatown in the world, an adventure I was more than willing to embark on. Thankfully, it’s just a train ride away.
STRAIGHT FROM THE JOSPER GRILL The Cape Grim tenderloin from Tasmania, Australia, paired perfectly with a Campo Moro Barbera from Piedmont, Italy
Taking trains remains one of my favorite modes of transportation despite the quizzical looks I get whenever I bring it up in conversation. I value its eco-friendliness and the ability to escape traffic jams. Guiding visitors through Manila, especially those eager to truly know the city, is a pleasure for me.
Our journey started with a train ride, hopping in from Ayala Station to Taft, switching to the LRT-1, and disembarking at Carriedo. The transformation in scenery was evident, and the excitement was contagious. I promised our group a stop at one of my beloved dim sum spots, but before that, we had a quick detour to Escolta.
CULTURE AND RELIGION Binondo Church represents the harmonious
coexistence of diverse traditions and the enduring fusion of Filipino-
Chinese heritage
At First United Building, we visited HUB Make Lab, an artist-led retail and creative space that always brings joy to my heart. We indulged in vintage clothing at Jodinand Aguillon’s Glorious Dias and sipped coffee at the Den, all while exploring this magnificent art deco gem from the 1920s. Escolta, once Manila’s financial center, holds timeless charm.
OLD MANILA It's gritty, quite scrappy but there's a lot of beauty and delicious food here if you know where to look
Our leisurely walk led us to Ongpin Street, Binondo’s main artery. Along the way, we grabbed egg tarts from Lord Stow’s and admired the street shrine of Santo Cristo de Longos, marveling at the harmonious blend of culture and faith. The use of incense sticks to pray to the cross was truly unique to this side of the world.
Our journey continued to the humongous Eng Bee Tin store for Chinese hopia, followed by a visit to the historic Binondo Church (built in 1852). We ended our Chinatown experience with a visit to Wai Ying, indulging in hakao and siomai, a true delight when it comes to taste and, for me, nostalgia.
The experience left such an impression that on Suze’s last day, we returned for more. It was a weekday so it was just us ladies. Tarot readings at Mystic Tavern were followed by a late lunch at Chuan Kee, Chinatown’s oldest fast food joint, open since 1940. The xiao long bao was so heavenly that sharing was a challenge. We wiped out a huge plate of pancit in minutes along with other dishes from its menu. My diet took a hit, but I would do it all over again in a heartbeat.
Seeing the Philippines through the eyes of our foreign visitors, especially those like Shilpa and Suze, is a joy. Their willingness to embrace new experiences without judgment makes exploring my city an adventure every time. We even hopped on a tricycle at one point, which added laughter and fond memories to our cherished journey.
Embracing the role of a tourist in my own city has allowed me to rediscover its magic and marvel and the wonders it has to offer. Each adventure reminds me of the beauty and richness that surrounds us daily. As a local and a tourist, I treasure every moment of these explorations, as they strengthen my connection to the heart and soul of Manila.
Indulging in the finest
Shangri-La The Fort’s acclaimed Raging Bull Chophouse & Bar once again earned recognition for its exceptional wine menu. Wine Spectator’s 2023 Restaurant Awards celebrated the world’s best restaurants for wine, and Raging Bull proudly retained a spot in its roster for the third consecutive year. The Best of Award of Excellence affirms the restaurant’s remarkable collection spanning various wine-growing regions, showcasing a significant depth of top producers.
EXCEPTIONAL Shangri-La, The Fort resident manager Mirko Antonio di Giorgi shows the Wine Spectator award to members of the media
To celebrate this esteemed honor, Raging Bull hosted an exquisite four-course dinner at The Keep, a hidden gem of a private dining area. The dinner featured beloved dishes expertly paired with the wines that earned them this prestigious accolade. We savored beautiful combinations like steak tartare and Maryland crab cake paired with a Sauvignon Blanc, Greenborough Blanc from New Zealand, while its fresh wild mixed mushrooms cappuccino was served alongside a rich Bourgogne rouge from Burgundy, France.
THE KEEP While I've dined at Raging Bull before, it was my first time knowing of and dining at The Keep. What a gorgeous venue for an intimate event
The pièce de résistance was their Josper-grilled Cape Grim Tenderloin from Tasmania, Australia, paired perfectly with a Campo Moro Barbera from Piedmont, Italy. For dessert, we indulged in the Cherry Ripe richly paired with a sweet Moscato, the Shy Pig from Australia.
Raging Bull Chophouse & Bar continues to be a beloved destination for those seeking a truly exceptional culinary experience, boasting a wine program that complements its exquisite menu and excites the senses.
MaArte Fair is back this weekend
MaArte Fair, the much-awaited fundraising event by non-profit Museum Foundation of the Philippines Inc. (MFPI), is currently ongoing at The Peninsula Manila. This year’s iteration is its most extensive yet, with over 100 artists and artisans coming together to celebrate local talents and creativity. With the theme “In Full Bloom,” MaArte Fair 2023 occupies three floors of The Pen, showcasing exquisite delicacies, pottery, leather goods, skillfully made furniture, and more. A portion of the profits will fund initiatives to enrich our nation’s identity.