OFF THE BEATEN PATH
A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step, says the philosopher Lao Tzu.
For driving enthusiasts, there comes a point when the mental journey ends and the actual driving begins.
Last June 22, I started a long overdue trip from Manila to Dumaguete City. I had a really good meal before leaving, having taken part in the food tasting session at A Mano restaurant in Makati City, owned by Amado Fores. It was a great send-off meal and I departed Manila at around 2 p.m.
The drive from Manila to Batangas took about two hours. There are two ways to get to Panay Island from Batangas. The first is to take a two-hour RORO (roll-on, roll-off) ride to Calapan, Mindoro, drive about four hours across the island, then take a three-hour RORO from Bulalacao, Mindoro to Caticlan, Aklan. The second is by taking an overnight boat ride from Batangas City to Caticlan. For this trip, I decided to take the overnight boat ride to Caticlan which previously, took about 12 hours, but with a newer vessel, now only takes nine hours.
After a good night’s rest, I woke up right before we docked in Caticlan a little past five a.m. The straight drive to Iloilo City took a little over four hours. You can opt to take the longer Southern Route, which passes through San Jose de Buenavista, the capital of Antique (adds less than two hours to the drive), or the northern route, which passes Roxas City, the capital of Capiz (adds over an hour to the drive). If you’re not rushing, I strongly suggest taking the longer route. The scenery and foodtrip along the way is well worth the added time.
Upon arriving in Iloilo City, I immediately visited the cathedral to say a prayer of thanks. Coincidentally, there’s a gastronomic landmark just beside the cathedral, which serves the classic la paz batchoy. I always try my best to stay a bit, to eat in one of the famous restaurants, but too bad, I was pressed for time. I promised myself to spend at least a day to ride a bicycle around the city the next time I pass, and hopefully, cross the channel, to visit the island of Guimaras, and eat the famous mango pizza. After lunch, I drove up north to Dumangas, to take a ferry to Bacolod City. There are several trips throughout the day to Negros. Depending on the vessel you take, it takes between one to two hours to get to Bacolod City. Unlike during the pandemic, where RT-PCR tests had to be presented, along with registering in health protocol apps, now it was super smooth and fast getting out of the pier once you dock.
Instead of driving straight to Dumaguete City, I decided to stay overnight in Bacolod, having dinner with Vice Mayor El Cid Familiaran in Sugba Sugba, which serves easily the best chicken inasal I’ve tasted in my whole life.
For the Saturday morning drive to Dumaguete, I opted to take the diversion road which is the fastest way to cross the island. But if you have the time, you may take the more scenic routes up north and cross the island via Don Salvador Benedicto. If you enjoy the beach, you can drive down south, via Sipalay City.
I took the shorter route because I was going to play music Saturday evening, and needed to rest a bit. I played 80’s music that night in Henry’s Hotel, owned by my good friend Jaime Ponce de Leon. Another gem of a place where you can relax and unwind.
Sunday morning, I had to have the vehicle washed. A must really, if you cross islands. While waiting for the guys to finish, I took the opportunity to go around the city. Taking a tricycle or renting a motorcycle are good options if you want to get around. You may want to visit the sulfur vents in Valencia, less than 30 minutes away.
Sunday afternoon, I flew back to Manila with silvanas safely packed inside my bag.
I can imagine what my readers will email me next. Is there a shorter, faster, less tedious way to do my ride across the country? Yes, there is, because adventures are meant to be personal, designed for you and by you. For a seasoned driver like myself, I can embark on RORO overnight trips and ignore all its inconveniences without much care. My definition of scenic can be boring to some. There is always the beach vs mountain destination debate. Fact is, there is no one size fits all trip or traveler.
Just do it.
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Off the Beat: Sharing a mix I did last July 11. A look back at classic 80’s and 90’s tunes:
Playlist: 1. Right Said Fred – Don’t Talk Just Kiss; 2. Al Corely – Square Rooms; 3. Undercover – Never Let Her Slip Away; 4. Sonia – Listen To Your Heart; 5. Cliff Richards – I Just Don’t Have The Heart; 6. Sonia – Counting Every Minute; 7. Jason Donovan – Too Many Broken Hearts.
Visit the link to listen: https://www.mixcloud.com/goyolarrazabal/goyos-mix-230711-dont-talk-just-kiss/