EAT AWAY Scene from the Japanese film The Midnight Diner about the stories behind the frenzy of Tokyo life What is the Philippines without a plate of adobo, China without Peking duck, France without *pot-au-feu*, Canada without poutine, and Mexico without mole? Like everything else, the nature of why we travel changes through time. Escapism, running from the pressures of society, was the primary tourism motivation in the ’90s. In the Middle Ages, the Church reached the far corners of the globe to spread the word of God. Old Romanism, meanwhile, traveled for the sole purpose of leisure during the classical antiquity period. Before civilization, man walked the earth in search of sustenance. Today, travel is no longer a simple form of distraction but rather a means to learn about and immerse in other cultures. The cultural identity of each place and its people is shaped, deeply influenced, or reflected by culinary heritage. In full circle, food is once again a driving force for us to explore the world, more than museums, ancient ruins, churches, or any landmarks. Everyone’s got to eat. What and how we consume reflects our way of life. In the words of food author Helen Rosner, “You don’t know the soul of where you’re standing until you’ve taken in the deep sweetness of a long-cooked tomato sauce made by nonna in Bologna, a buttery biscuit kissed with Tennessee sorghum syrup, the steamy-cheesy chewiness of the fresh *pao de quiejo* found all over Sao Paolo.” Each locale has its array of indigenous and popular delicacies. Just open a pantry or a menu anywhere in the world and you’re partaking of its past, present, and future. The more we enjoy food, the better we understand the architecture and the inner workings of a country. For instance, similar to South African cuisine, Filipino fare is an accumulation of several subcultures. Just as the Philippines was visited by our neighbor China and then later colonized by Spain and America, South Africa was shaped by Great Britain. We see the distinctions in ingredients, giving us a general idea of the climate and topography of a region. Seafood is common in Japan, a nation surrounded by the sea. Because of its warm weather, a prevalent food preservation method in Japan is pickling, which could also be tied to the discovery of the umami flavor by Japanese scientist Dr. Kikunae Ikeda. Whether it’s passing through the fairy chimneys, into one of the oldest and largest monasteries in Cappadocia for artisanal pasta at Seki in Turkey, or navigating Phnom Penh’s backstreets to try deep-fried crickets in Cambodia, or plowing through shoppers at La Paz public market to get a hearty bowl of batchoy in the Philippines, part of the thrill is getting to the restaurant. Asking locals for food recommendations hidden from the limelight is also part of the fun and could even start new friendships.
From the sizzle of the pan to the appealing colors, flavors, textures, and scents of a dish, all aspect of our meal adds to the memories we make on and associate with a trip. Economically, culinary tourism has become a pillar in the modern travel industry. The development of food culture helps tourist spots draw new visitors. Restaurants, bars, and cafés are, after all, meeting points for all members of a community. The dining table is a social venue for stories and discussions. Food sparks conversations like nothing else. It is what makes us who we are as people. You’ll never know where your food could take you unless you have your first bite, so the next time you hit the road, add to your itinerary a street food tour, a wine tasting tour, cooking classes, or maybe dine with a stranger.