View of Capri from Villa San Michele.
When travel buffs say Italy, they often refer to the big four of Rome, Florence, Milan, and Venice. But there is much more to Italy than these four major tourist destinations. And when it’s getting close to the summer months, one iconic getaway is the fabled, magical island of Capri. Making Capri our ‘home base’ was the little twist in our recent trip to Italy; and it was a wonderful full week of sunshine, culture, dining, the Arts, history, archaeology, and sailing. It’s the chill holiday we could all use; when time stands still, and we savor each vacation moment.
Gardens of Augustus on Capri.
Capri is an island in the Gulf of Naples, and has been a ‘resort town’ since the time of the Roman Republic. Tiberius built a series of villas on the island, and Villa Jovis is one of the best preserved villas in all of Italy, dating back to 27 AD. Popular as a haven for artists and writers; John Singer Sargent, Claude Debussy, Somerset Maugham, Graham Greene, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Valentino Garavani, and Mariah Carey — are just some of the names who have been associated with the island through the centuries.
As a retreat and health destination, Capri has ruled supreme in the area. The Grand Hotel Quisisana, in the center of the town Capri, was first founded by a British surgeon, and existed as a favorite for the moneyed British. Then as a hotel, it has been a magnet for visiting royalty, politicians, and celebrities. The tourist attraction, Villa San Michèle in Anacapri, was the dream home of Swedish physician Axel Munthe, who built the villa on the ruins of an ancient Chapel. Queen Victoria of Sweden was a regular visitor, as Munthe was her doctor. Now it’s a wonderful museum of Art, and botanical gardens; with an unrivalled view of the island.
View of the Marina from a villa one can rent on Capri.
One lands at the Capodichino Airport of Naples, and you either book a private boat or take the commercial hydrofoil to Capri. In the summer months, the island is teeming with guests who have booked villas or hotel rooms; and with visitors for the day, who disembark from cruise ships or sail in from the neighboring cities, towns, and islands. Napoli (Naples) is a 50-minute sail; while the Amalfi Coast and its towns like Positano is due southeast from Capri.
Caravaggio’s Seven Works of Mercy.
At Napoli, we’d do day visits, and I loved the Caravaggio found at the Pio Monte della Misericordia. The Seven Works of Mercy is circa 1607, and this chiaroscuro masterpiece still serves as inspiration for other artists - a theatre play in 2016 by the Royal Shakespeare Company, a biographical thriller, and even an opus of seven poems.
The majolica secret garden at Santa Chiara.
The Santa Chiara Monasteryo was built in the 14th century; and around 1742, a secret cloistered garden with benches and columns of hand-painted majolica tiles was commissioned. We say ‘secret’ because as a home for nuns it was shuttered from the world; and it was only in 1925, as monks shared the monastery, did the public become aware that this magnificent garden even existed. Painted with stories, it’s amazing to realize that for close to 200 years, this art existed, but exclusively viewed by nuns of the order of Santa Chiara.
Photo from Pompeii.
Pompeii is still a wonderful place to spend half a day. It’s a magnificent testimonial to the History of Man and the power of Nature; how in 79 AD a sophisticated commercial city with elections, municipal works and public theater existed. And of course, how the eruption of nearby Mount Vesuvius forever immortalized that city into a single snapshot moment under volcanic lava and ash. As our excellent guide was explaining, to this day large areas of Pompeii remain buried, awaiting better technology to enhance discovery.
Food and dining will always be an integral part of any Italian vacation. Much like the Japanese, the Italians are very proud of their home-grown produce and ingredients. It may be an oversimplification, but I would lump Italian and Japanese cuisine more about the integrity of the ingredients, and keeping the cooking as simple as possible. This would be in contrast to say the French and Chinese kitchen, where technique plays a stronger part, and sauces are often a must.
Pizzeria Concettina at Napoli, and their pizza (below) with yellow tomatoes.
And if Italians are prone to claiming their region is the best, the Neapolitans will traditionally be the most vocal and loudest. At Napoli, we had the chance to do one dinner at Pizzeria da Concettina ai Tre Santi. This is pizza brought to the level of a gastronomic experience via a tasting menu. I especially liked the Costierra - mozzarella and fior di latte cheese with olive oil, basil and lemon zest - the lemon zest making the big difference. And the Il Sole Della Sanitá, where buffalo mozzarella is mixed with oregano, salt, and yellow tomatoes.
Island hopping along the Amalfi Coast will bring you to fabulous seafood restaurants, and the two I’d highly recommend are the Conca Del Sogno on Nerano, which exists in a little cove all by its secluded lonesome; and the Lo Scoglio Da Tommaso in Massa Lubrense.
Approaching the Conca Del Sogno by boat, and the red shrimp crudo bowl (below).
The Conca Del Sogno is in Racommone Bay, and just arriving at this gourmet find by sea is awe-inspiring. Be sure to ask if the red shrimp is in season, and eat this sweet delicacy raw. It’s a particular type of shrimp that’s red, even when fished from the sea. It’s served on ice, and is a true treat. Also order their catch of the day, baked in salt.
At Lo Scoglio, and their sea urchin on ice (below).
Lo Scoglio is the more traditional seafood restaurant, and one of their specialties is sea urchin. Their Zucchini pasta is another signature dish; and it’s really delightful, but filling. This is where Issa went against tradition and also ordered a meat dish, their Veal Genovese — and it was terrific, chunks of tender veal in an onion ragu, caramelized to perfection.
Fiori di Zucca, and the Cannoli at La Camerelle (below), Capri.
Back in Capri, the two eateries I’d suggest are La Camarelle on Via Camarelle, and the Ristorante Il Geranio on Via Krupp. Camerelle has its fiori di zucca appetizer; zucchini blossoms served with anchovy mayonnaise. And leave room for their cannoli with berries dessert – ideal, as it’s not one humongous cannoli, but a nice, bite-sized version of little cannolis.
The scenic view at Il Geranio, and their Amberjack fish special (below).
For a romantic, scenic view while dining in Capri, head to Ristorante Il Geranio. It’s situated beyond the Gardens of Augustus, along via Krupp, right beside the villa that Baron Krupp built as his summer retreat. Their Amberjack special is soft morsels of fish, simmered with parsley, cherry tomatoes and potatoes.
View from the villa at 8 p.m. Capri’s bewitching hour.
This time of the year, Capri has its sunset way past 8 p.m., and it’s akin to telling you to make the most of your day - that Nature is gifting you with those additional hours of daylight to see more of the island, to explore more of the sights, sounds, and tastes that have made this area a highly regarded spot of the Italian ‘dolce vita’ (sweet life).
In closing, I’d just like to mention that we flew Turkish Airlines and it was a wonderful experience. A little under twelve hours to Istanbul, then the connecting flight to Napoli of two hours. So one leaves from Manila at night, can catch some sleep heading to Istanbul; and when one arrives in Napoli, it’s around 8 a.m. Plus the layover in Istanbul is a dream, as the shops and restaurants are open 24 hours. That’s why Istanbul has been successfully vying with Dubai as the airport hub for the area, reaping awards from media platforms who judge airports and their amenities.